My month long project is coming to a close, and I thought it might be a good time to fill you in a little on where I've been spending my days. The project certainly hasn't turned out as I had planned or hoped, but I've also been able to learn many valuable things because of this project. My time has been spent in Mathare, a slum about 1.5 to 2 hours away from my house.
Mathare is certainly not even close to being the largest slum of Nairobi, yet is still home to over half a million people. Most are women and their children; most unemployed. Many of the men you see are passed out in the alleys because of drug and alcohol abuse. The population increases daily as people flock to Nairobi in hopes of employment and opportunities. Unfortunately, instead most live off about a dollar a day in complete squaller, with no government aid and no hope for their future or their children.
In all the interviews I've completed, I've met few that have had the opportunity to attend secondary school, and less than five who have been able to complete it. The Kenyan government provides universal primary education. Too bad that there aren't enough primary schools in Mathare for all the children. Instead, private schools have popped up to accommodate the ever-increasing poverty. These "private" schools are made from scrap metal, lack electricity, are stifling hot, and fit 20 to 30 students in each classroom which is about the size of a nice bathroom.
Large families fight to fit into small ramshackle huts made of scrap metal and other products usually regarded to as trash. Rent for these "houses" range anywhere from 800 to 2500 Kenyan Shillings (between 10 and 30 USD). It may not sound like much, but most families struggle to make three or four thousand a month. These are the dollar a day statistics you always hear about.
The “streets” are lined with sewage and other waste. Streams of unusable water run through the entire slum, making walking through the slum a dangerous and arduous adventure. The government does not provide adequate water supplies, with many people being forced to go on long walks each day to fetch water. The water supply was turned off a year ago because the government complained too many people were not paying. There are not enough bathrooms to suffice for the overabundant population. Where electricity exists, it is usually in an illegal form; hijacked from families up on the hills above Mathare, still costing each household about 300 shillings a month.
Nighttime is a dangerous time in Mathare. Although the Kenyan government
implemented a project to instill large lights for all of the slums, there are still areas of darkness. When there are power outages the slums become infinitely more dangerous at night. With little police intervention throughout the slums, people are left to fend off muggers, rapists, and other violent persons by themselves.
If you wanted to walk through Mathare by yourself, it would be nearly impossible. The maze of homes and shops is nearly impenetrable without a knowledgeable guide. If you do get in, be prepared for the nonstop chants of "How are you, how are you" over and over again from young children excited to see a white person. The jaded adults just stare at you, occasionally asking that you sponsor their child through school. The meaner ones yell at you to leave, that this isn't a show for my privileged eyes to see.
On hot days, I am embarrassed to say, I can not survive staying in Mathare for more than 2 hours. The combination of heat, lack of ventilation, and the awful stench of human waste makes me physically ill. Instead I leave, sit on my matatu for 2 hours, and realize how unbelievably lucky I am that my journeys to Mathare last for a few hours at most, while all the people I talked to during the day were born, raised, and will probably die in conditions that will never even be an option for me to live in.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Thanksgiving in Kenya
I love Thanksgiving. It may be my favorite holiday, so I was not about to stop a little thing like being in Kenya where they don't have Turkey stop me from having my Thanksgiving dinner.
Luckily Nairobi is swarming with ex pats, particularly the area that I live in. It wasn't too hard finding a large turkey (although finding one that wasn't completely ridiculously overpriced was a bit of a challenge). The real challenge came in trying to cook the turkey and all the other delicious goodies that are necessary for Thanksgiving in a Kenyan oven. At least our apartment comes with an oven, which is a huge luxury here. The turkey just barely fit, but we somehow got it in (and even managed to bake brie and pigs in a blanket at the same time)
So all in all, Thanksgiving was wonderful. I found all the necessary ingredients except cranberries. I had a week filled with baking. I even successfully cooked my first turkey, although apparently its head had been stuffed in the Turkey and i didn't take that out. Oops. I did get the neck and giblets out successfully, didn't dry the turkey out, and had it out on the table with all the other delicious food I prepared only 2 and a half hours after we had originally planned. Then I celebrated with 11 others, and it was wonderful.
Nairobi is now decorated for Christmas, which I am highly opposed to. Now the grocery store that I go to has power outages every seven minutes because of all the lights that are on outside. Personally I would rather keep my meat refrigerated than have palm trees lit up for a month. There are also probably large sections of Nairobi that have lot longer power outages than the somewhat (okay, very) shwanky part of town I have found myself in.
I've also decided not to go to Tanzania this year. It was a somewhat difficult decision to make, but I don't think I can handle flying into New York, driving to William and Mary, and starting classes the next day. I'm still going to travel around Uganda with a friend for two weeks, and then fly home. I'll miss Christmas, but hopefully be home in time for New Years in New York. Now it's just a matter of changing my flight (again), so everybody should say a little prayer or do a little dance, or just cross your fingers for me, that I can get home when I want to.
Hope everyone's Thanksgiving was wonderful. Enjoy Black Friday. New York Times says that sales are going to blow your mind, so make sure to buy me a lot of stuff.
Luckily Nairobi is swarming with ex pats, particularly the area that I live in. It wasn't too hard finding a large turkey (although finding one that wasn't completely ridiculously overpriced was a bit of a challenge). The real challenge came in trying to cook the turkey and all the other delicious goodies that are necessary for Thanksgiving in a Kenyan oven. At least our apartment comes with an oven, which is a huge luxury here. The turkey just barely fit, but we somehow got it in (and even managed to bake brie and pigs in a blanket at the same time)
So all in all, Thanksgiving was wonderful. I found all the necessary ingredients except cranberries. I had a week filled with baking. I even successfully cooked my first turkey, although apparently its head had been stuffed in the Turkey and i didn't take that out. Oops. I did get the neck and giblets out successfully, didn't dry the turkey out, and had it out on the table with all the other delicious food I prepared only 2 and a half hours after we had originally planned. Then I celebrated with 11 others, and it was wonderful.
Nairobi is now decorated for Christmas, which I am highly opposed to. Now the grocery store that I go to has power outages every seven minutes because of all the lights that are on outside. Personally I would rather keep my meat refrigerated than have palm trees lit up for a month. There are also probably large sections of Nairobi that have lot longer power outages than the somewhat (okay, very) shwanky part of town I have found myself in.
I've also decided not to go to Tanzania this year. It was a somewhat difficult decision to make, but I don't think I can handle flying into New York, driving to William and Mary, and starting classes the next day. I'm still going to travel around Uganda with a friend for two weeks, and then fly home. I'll miss Christmas, but hopefully be home in time for New Years in New York. Now it's just a matter of changing my flight (again), so everybody should say a little prayer or do a little dance, or just cross your fingers for me, that I can get home when I want to.
Hope everyone's Thanksgiving was wonderful. Enjoy Black Friday. New York Times says that sales are going to blow your mind, so make sure to buy me a lot of stuff.
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Driving Lessons
If upon visiting Nairobi, matatus do not seem like an appealing mode of transportation, there is always the option to rent a car. However, there are certain elements of driving that will suddenly appear, while most standard rules that you’ve appropriately obeyed your whole driving life will suddenly disappear.
Which Side of the Road Do I Drive On?
Technically, drivers should stay on the left side of the road at all times. However, if in heavy traffic, most likely you will dash onto the wrong side of the road, speed as far as you can go before crashing into an oncoming car, and then slyly force yourself back into the left lane by simply not allowing anybody else to take your spot. Although this will inevitably cause you to be in several car accidents a year, nobody will really mind all that much as it is daily life and their cars are already being destroyed by the unfathomable number of potholes. If driving on the wrong side of the road doesn’t appeal to you, you can always take the side walk approach. Now this poses a problem when you run into all the people walking and the street venders selling fruits and vegetables. Here you just simply drive to about an inch of them, viciously honk your horn until they figure out their unforgivable audaciousness in using the sidewalk, and then move themselves and all of their belongings out of your way.
What’s With all Those Roundabouts Anyway?
I’m sure if an analysis of worldwide roundabouts was done, Nairobi would come out as number one in the number that exist. In town (which is what westerners would consider “downtown”, but here downtown refers to the unsafe red light districts), you will be hard pressed to find yourself traveling more than a minute without coming across another roundabout. At midnight, these make great sense and are great fun to travel around with your crazy cab driver. At noon, they are treacherous awful things where traffic laws are thrown out the window, and you will likely witness at least 1 traffic accident, and you will probably sit in 15-20 minutes of traffic at each one (a tremendous amount of time when you have to sit through several roundabouts). Here it is extremely common to see the mass exodus of people from their matatus as walking 5 kms suddenly becomes exponentially faster than sitting in the car. Unfortunately this then adds to the degree of difficulty, as not only do you have to avoid hundreds of cars, you also have to attempt to avoid the hundreds of people milling around between cars in the streets.
How Do I Avoid That Unfathomable Number of Potholes?
Simply put, you don’t. Give it two weeks and your stomach will suddenly be used to the constant throws of the road, and suddenly you start to enjoy the unavoidable ab workout of riding around Nairobi.
When are the Best Times to Drive to Avoid an Immense Amount of Traffic?
If you like to drive around at night, Nairobi will be perfect for you. Between the hours of 8:30pm and 4:30 am you will be hard pressed to find traffic, and those roundabouts are great Otherwise you will be stuck in traffic no matter what, no matter where you are. If you thought your cities traffic was bad, I assure you, it is not. So be thankful next time you’re driving down the LIE; at least you have your 711 coffee.
Traffic Lights?
In theory, they exist. In practice, you go when you can. Although at times you see traffic officers trying to control the roads, they are also largely ignored. When people do follow them, it usually turns into a version of the opposite game, gravely frightening the passengers but somehow always working out.
The Rights of the Pedestrian
I haven’t quite figured these out. Usually the pedestrian just runs. There are numerous mind games played between the drivers and the walkers where the drivers often speed up immensely in order to see if they can get the pedestrian. In town there are a number of pedestrian signals, but like all other things they are ignored.
Overall, the main goal is to have great luck. Basically just drive, drive anywhere and everywhere, look intimidating, and you will probably make it from point A to point B. Then again you could just take a cab which takes all of the above to a new level.
Which Side of the Road Do I Drive On?
Technically, drivers should stay on the left side of the road at all times. However, if in heavy traffic, most likely you will dash onto the wrong side of the road, speed as far as you can go before crashing into an oncoming car, and then slyly force yourself back into the left lane by simply not allowing anybody else to take your spot. Although this will inevitably cause you to be in several car accidents a year, nobody will really mind all that much as it is daily life and their cars are already being destroyed by the unfathomable number of potholes. If driving on the wrong side of the road doesn’t appeal to you, you can always take the side walk approach. Now this poses a problem when you run into all the people walking and the street venders selling fruits and vegetables. Here you just simply drive to about an inch of them, viciously honk your horn until they figure out their unforgivable audaciousness in using the sidewalk, and then move themselves and all of their belongings out of your way.
What’s With all Those Roundabouts Anyway?
I’m sure if an analysis of worldwide roundabouts was done, Nairobi would come out as number one in the number that exist. In town (which is what westerners would consider “downtown”, but here downtown refers to the unsafe red light districts), you will be hard pressed to find yourself traveling more than a minute without coming across another roundabout. At midnight, these make great sense and are great fun to travel around with your crazy cab driver. At noon, they are treacherous awful things where traffic laws are thrown out the window, and you will likely witness at least 1 traffic accident, and you will probably sit in 15-20 minutes of traffic at each one (a tremendous amount of time when you have to sit through several roundabouts). Here it is extremely common to see the mass exodus of people from their matatus as walking 5 kms suddenly becomes exponentially faster than sitting in the car. Unfortunately this then adds to the degree of difficulty, as not only do you have to avoid hundreds of cars, you also have to attempt to avoid the hundreds of people milling around between cars in the streets.
How Do I Avoid That Unfathomable Number of Potholes?
Simply put, you don’t. Give it two weeks and your stomach will suddenly be used to the constant throws of the road, and suddenly you start to enjoy the unavoidable ab workout of riding around Nairobi.
When are the Best Times to Drive to Avoid an Immense Amount of Traffic?
If you like to drive around at night, Nairobi will be perfect for you. Between the hours of 8:30pm and 4:30 am you will be hard pressed to find traffic, and those roundabouts are great Otherwise you will be stuck in traffic no matter what, no matter where you are. If you thought your cities traffic was bad, I assure you, it is not. So be thankful next time you’re driving down the LIE; at least you have your 711 coffee.
Traffic Lights?
In theory, they exist. In practice, you go when you can. Although at times you see traffic officers trying to control the roads, they are also largely ignored. When people do follow them, it usually turns into a version of the opposite game, gravely frightening the passengers but somehow always working out.
The Rights of the Pedestrian
I haven’t quite figured these out. Usually the pedestrian just runs. There are numerous mind games played between the drivers and the walkers where the drivers often speed up immensely in order to see if they can get the pedestrian. In town there are a number of pedestrian signals, but like all other things they are ignored.
Overall, the main goal is to have great luck. Basically just drive, drive anywhere and everywhere, look intimidating, and you will probably make it from point A to point B. Then again you could just take a cab which takes all of the above to a new level.
Thursday, November 20, 2008
My Stomach
So it turns out that what I had affectionately named Jacque von Claudue was not actually a worm in my tummy. Instead it was a billion bacteria viciously attacking my intestines for a month and a half. Oops.
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Monday, November 17, 2008
Matatus
I've decided to follow my sister's lead and begin a tutorial of how to survive in Kenya.
What is a Matatu?
A matatu is East Africa's response to a lack of public transportation and incredible traffic. The small ones start at 14 passengers (although a little squeezing can go a long way in adding a few passengers), and can go up to bus size. They travel on routes throughout Nairobi and beyond.
How Reliable is a Matatu?
Great question. That really relies on what traffic is like. Usually you stand on the side of the road and have found your matatu of choice to hop on. In the peak of rush hour it may take a few matatus to find one that has an empty seat, bust most likely you won't wait more than 5 minutes. However, once on, you don't necessarily know how long you will stay on. If you happen to hit an unexpected traffic jam (which should actually be expected), you will most likely be kicked off the matatu as they have decided to no longer run. Sometimes you'll get your money back, but usually you won't, and then the door will be slammed in your face.
How Do I Know Which Route to Take
The general consensus on how to figure out which route to take is "you just know". Although there are very set routes the matatus take, there is nothing in writing anywhere to tell you, leaving the white people cluesless. Instead you ask "Wapi matatu mpaka insert name here" (Where is the matatu to....). People most point in an indeterminable direction, you walk fifteen steps, and repeat the process. However, there is a catch to this. For instance, there is Rt 46 which goes to my house, and also to Mathare (a slum on the opposite side of Nairobi). If you ask matatus near my house if they go to Mathare they look at you like you are an idiot, and promptly drive away. Why? Because Route 46 does not actually go the whole way. Instead you must get off at the railway station, take a ten minute walk, and then hop another 46 to Mathare. Why is there this mystery gap in matatu service? Another great unknown.
Where Do You Sit in a Matatu
Seating on a matatu is at a premium. To sit in the front means an absolute panic attack, and you are near death almost the entire time as the matatu lurches into the nearest automobile. Sitting on a window seat is equally as bad as you watch your matatu creep up to the matatu next to you, until you can't creep anymore, and then you DO creep more, and become positive that at any given moment the person's head next to is going to crash through your window and onto your lap. If you sit in the back row you are certain to hit your head multiple times on the roof, as for some reason the roof dips down just in time for the back row. Then if you sit in the seat next to the door, you will probably have the fare taker sit on your lap at least once as he tries to make room for extra passengers. So that leaves 2 seats for the taking. Good luck.
Decoration
Matatus can be broken into three categories: the Obama Matatu, the Jesus Matatu, or the Ghetto Party Matatu. Sometimes if you're really lucky, you can catch one that has combined all three.
The Obama
Consists of various pictures of Obama's head plastered onto the windows and sides of the vehicle. Then there are various phrases like "Yes we Can" and "The Change you Can Believe In".
The Jesus
The large window in back has a picture of Jesus, usually with a saying such as "Believe in your Shepherd" or some such thing. Usually the sides of the vehicle are covered in the Beatitudes and various other religious sayings, along with smaller images of Jesus.
Ghetto Party
These matatus are the ones that are most often vibrant oranges, pinks, and purples. Then they are covered with obscene phrases, and either pictures of half naked girls, or American rap and hip hop celebrities.
The Combination
These usually cover Jesus and Obama on the outside. Once inside however you are surrounded with ridiculous phrases, that even I proficient in English, sometimes have a hard time understanding.
Matatu Entertainment
No matter which matatu you take, you are sure to have the same in transit entertainment. It consists of obnoxiously loud, bad bad bad music, that often revolves around alcohol, drugs, and parts of the female anatomy. Some songs are only three words long, but I will refrain from posting them here as my mother reads this. If you are lucky and catch a matatu when it is getting dark, you will also experience the flashing lights and television screens to play music videos or other random tidbits that rarely actually go along with the songs being played. Once in a blue moon, this music will be foregone for a mix of Whitney Houston and bad country.
And that is how I spend at least 3 hours of my day. Next I will touch on how to drive in Nairobi, as that is a bizarre experience in itself.
What is a Matatu?
A matatu is East Africa's response to a lack of public transportation and incredible traffic. The small ones start at 14 passengers (although a little squeezing can go a long way in adding a few passengers), and can go up to bus size. They travel on routes throughout Nairobi and beyond.
How Reliable is a Matatu?
Great question. That really relies on what traffic is like. Usually you stand on the side of the road and have found your matatu of choice to hop on. In the peak of rush hour it may take a few matatus to find one that has an empty seat, bust most likely you won't wait more than 5 minutes. However, once on, you don't necessarily know how long you will stay on. If you happen to hit an unexpected traffic jam (which should actually be expected), you will most likely be kicked off the matatu as they have decided to no longer run. Sometimes you'll get your money back, but usually you won't, and then the door will be slammed in your face.
How Do I Know Which Route to Take
The general consensus on how to figure out which route to take is "you just know". Although there are very set routes the matatus take, there is nothing in writing anywhere to tell you, leaving the white people cluesless. Instead you ask "Wapi matatu mpaka insert name here" (Where is the matatu to....). People most point in an indeterminable direction, you walk fifteen steps, and repeat the process. However, there is a catch to this. For instance, there is Rt 46 which goes to my house, and also to Mathare (a slum on the opposite side of Nairobi). If you ask matatus near my house if they go to Mathare they look at you like you are an idiot, and promptly drive away. Why? Because Route 46 does not actually go the whole way. Instead you must get off at the railway station, take a ten minute walk, and then hop another 46 to Mathare. Why is there this mystery gap in matatu service? Another great unknown.
Where Do You Sit in a Matatu
Seating on a matatu is at a premium. To sit in the front means an absolute panic attack, and you are near death almost the entire time as the matatu lurches into the nearest automobile. Sitting on a window seat is equally as bad as you watch your matatu creep up to the matatu next to you, until you can't creep anymore, and then you DO creep more, and become positive that at any given moment the person's head next to is going to crash through your window and onto your lap. If you sit in the back row you are certain to hit your head multiple times on the roof, as for some reason the roof dips down just in time for the back row. Then if you sit in the seat next to the door, you will probably have the fare taker sit on your lap at least once as he tries to make room for extra passengers. So that leaves 2 seats for the taking. Good luck.
Decoration
Matatus can be broken into three categories: the Obama Matatu, the Jesus Matatu, or the Ghetto Party Matatu. Sometimes if you're really lucky, you can catch one that has combined all three.
The Obama
Consists of various pictures of Obama's head plastered onto the windows and sides of the vehicle. Then there are various phrases like "Yes we Can" and "The Change you Can Believe In".
The Jesus
The large window in back has a picture of Jesus, usually with a saying such as "Believe in your Shepherd" or some such thing. Usually the sides of the vehicle are covered in the Beatitudes and various other religious sayings, along with smaller images of Jesus.
Ghetto Party
These matatus are the ones that are most often vibrant oranges, pinks, and purples. Then they are covered with obscene phrases, and either pictures of half naked girls, or American rap and hip hop celebrities.
The Combination
These usually cover Jesus and Obama on the outside. Once inside however you are surrounded with ridiculous phrases, that even I proficient in English, sometimes have a hard time understanding.
Matatu Entertainment
No matter which matatu you take, you are sure to have the same in transit entertainment. It consists of obnoxiously loud, bad bad bad music, that often revolves around alcohol, drugs, and parts of the female anatomy. Some songs are only three words long, but I will refrain from posting them here as my mother reads this. If you are lucky and catch a matatu when it is getting dark, you will also experience the flashing lights and television screens to play music videos or other random tidbits that rarely actually go along with the songs being played. Once in a blue moon, this music will be foregone for a mix of Whitney Houston and bad country.
And that is how I spend at least 3 hours of my day. Next I will touch on how to drive in Nairobi, as that is a bizarre experience in itself.
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Obama Day
Today I am celebrating Obama Day, the newest national holiday on Kenya's calendar. Yesterday there were parades of people blocking off the streets downtown, and everywhere I went people shouted "OBAMA" at me. People have flooded to "Obama's" homestead, and everyone is in preparation for when he comes "home".
I unfortunately will not be celebrating a lot. Instead I will be writing a proposal that was due two days ago and moving into my new apartment.
Pictures of my new bald and beautiful head will follow shortly.
I unfortunately will not be celebrating a lot. Instead I will be writing a proposal that was due two days ago and moving into my new apartment.
Pictures of my new bald and beautiful head will follow shortly.
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Shaved Head
I shaved my head today. I woke up and said "I don't want hair anymore". And then I shaved it all off.
The end.
The end.
Monday, November 3, 2008
Dadaab
Just thought you all should know that I'm alive and that I just spent a week in Tanzania. I'll update about that some other time.
While in a Massaii Village I was given approval to go to Dadaab. My adviser apparently bribed Kenyan officials into letting us go (although that was only hinted at since I had nothing to do with it and I don't think anybody wants to admit to that).
So it was all great, until this morning, when the camp officially became too dangerous for me to go.
I give up.
While in a Massaii Village I was given approval to go to Dadaab. My adviser apparently bribed Kenyan officials into letting us go (although that was only hinted at since I had nothing to do with it and I don't think anybody wants to admit to that).
So it was all great, until this morning, when the camp officially became too dangerous for me to go.
I give up.
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Just Hilarious
So...the refugee camp that I decided to go to because it is too dangerous to go to the western portions of the country.
Remember my nice safe alternative?
You mean the one that has just erupted in violence?
Oh yea...that one.
Really, it's all just absolutely hilarious.
No big deal.
Remember my nice safe alternative?
You mean the one that has just erupted in violence?
Oh yea...that one.
Really, it's all just absolutely hilarious.
No big deal.
Raspberries
The word raspberry may have become my most commonly used while in Kenya. Whenever someone talks about fruits my mind wanders to images of me strolling through large open fields, skipping around with raspberries in my hand, and being in pure bliss. Then all too suddenly, I am reminded that Kenya has no raspberries.
But today...I found them. I got one of the two cartons of them, and am overlooking the fact that they all have a bit of mold on them, and am thoroughly enjoying the beautiful beautiful experience of this wonderful fruit. I also found kiwis and a pomegranate, but they were a bit out of my price range.
The moral of the story: don't take berries for granted because you never know when they will disappear from your life.
But today...I found them. I got one of the two cartons of them, and am overlooking the fact that they all have a bit of mold on them, and am thoroughly enjoying the beautiful beautiful experience of this wonderful fruit. I also found kiwis and a pomegranate, but they were a bit out of my price range.
The moral of the story: don't take berries for granted because you never know when they will disappear from your life.
Sunday, October 19, 2008
Maybe I'm a Spoiled Brat
....but I’m sick of waking up in the middle of the night, realizing that it is pouring rain outside, and beginning to feel guilty that I’m in a house with two blankets, a roof, and that I don’t have mud and human waste spilling into my hut that has about 10 people living in the space that should be made for one.
My heart shouldn’t break when I see a child drop a ball of fried dough, but it does because I know that that mandazi is probably the only food he’s going to get for the day, while I get to go eat 3 full nutritious meals, followed by ice cream if I want. And then I have enough money left over to go see a movie, or grab a beer or two, or buy whatever I want.
I’ve spent less than $50 of my own money in the past 6 weeks (keeping in mind that my housing has been covered and that $50 has gone to spending money on baking and restaurants)...this country is as cheap as you can get, and more than 90% of its population works in the informal economy and can’t afford any of these things.
I’m sick of having to question why I’m lucky enough to be a white girl from America, born to two well educated parents that have the ability to cosign my loans so that I can pick up and travel through the world, while everyone that I see here doesn’t even want to go to primary school because they know it’s not worth it. Secondary school for four years here costs about the same as my parents paid to send me to my private school for less than a trimester, and yet nobody can afford to send their children here. My house help, who completed secondary school, shouldn’t have to work in this house so that she can spend a few years saving up for a trade school- which costs less than $300 to complete
People shouldn’t just accept AIDS as a part of their society, and say that getting it is inevitable so why should we even protect ourselves. Knowing that it’s in the school curriculum, but none of the teachers understand it, and that most children don’t go to school and when my friends and I explain it to our families they are completely flabbergasted, makes me irate.
My Mama is one of the most educated women I have ever met, including those in the US. She’s visited the slums twice in her life, and is just blind to everything going on around her.
I’m writing a final paper on development and health, and I have no idea what development is. But I’m fairly certain that all our foreign aid, and the UN, and the awful governments set in place are doing nothing to accomplish any form of it. And I’ve resigned myself to the position of having no clue, and just deciding that I am going to enjoy pumpkin break because I am too frustrated to do anything else, which sets off the whole irate cycle again.
My heart shouldn’t break when I see a child drop a ball of fried dough, but it does because I know that that mandazi is probably the only food he’s going to get for the day, while I get to go eat 3 full nutritious meals, followed by ice cream if I want. And then I have enough money left over to go see a movie, or grab a beer or two, or buy whatever I want.
I’ve spent less than $50 of my own money in the past 6 weeks (keeping in mind that my housing has been covered and that $50 has gone to spending money on baking and restaurants)...this country is as cheap as you can get, and more than 90% of its population works in the informal economy and can’t afford any of these things.
I’m sick of having to question why I’m lucky enough to be a white girl from America, born to two well educated parents that have the ability to cosign my loans so that I can pick up and travel through the world, while everyone that I see here doesn’t even want to go to primary school because they know it’s not worth it. Secondary school for four years here costs about the same as my parents paid to send me to my private school for less than a trimester, and yet nobody can afford to send their children here. My house help, who completed secondary school, shouldn’t have to work in this house so that she can spend a few years saving up for a trade school- which costs less than $300 to complete
People shouldn’t just accept AIDS as a part of their society, and say that getting it is inevitable so why should we even protect ourselves. Knowing that it’s in the school curriculum, but none of the teachers understand it, and that most children don’t go to school and when my friends and I explain it to our families they are completely flabbergasted, makes me irate.
My Mama is one of the most educated women I have ever met, including those in the US. She’s visited the slums twice in her life, and is just blind to everything going on around her.
I’m writing a final paper on development and health, and I have no idea what development is. But I’m fairly certain that all our foreign aid, and the UN, and the awful governments set in place are doing nothing to accomplish any form of it. And I’ve resigned myself to the position of having no clue, and just deciding that I am going to enjoy pumpkin break because I am too frustrated to do anything else, which sets off the whole irate cycle again.
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Realizing I Know Nothing
As some may have noticed from a post earlier this week, I wasn't in the best mood ever. I blame most of that on Kenyan maize, boiled or grilled- it still tastes awful. Or maybe it had something to do with going to visit a woman with AIDS, living in the slums, abandoned by her alcoholic husband, trying to raise 2 babies with absolutely no money and unable to feed them or herself. Or going out to dinner with a group of women who's husbands had cheated on them and then infected them with HIV, and it being totally okay because it's okay when men aren't faithful- no big deal. Or realizing that I live minutes away from the largest slum in all of Africa, and that the Kenyan government has just decided that millions of people in Nairobi alone just aren't worth providing basic services to, and furthermore let's just cut off the little supply of water they did have so that they can rely on a stream that is polluted with human waste and trash.
I'm realizing I actually know nothing, and that any of the information I learned in America really has no bearing on anything actually going on in Kenya (and I would imagine most places). I'm frustrated.
On the bright side it looks like I have a research topic. On the downside it takes place in the Dadaab refuge camp, which is the most populous refugee camp in the world, and I'll be there by myself. Now I have to deal with a lot of bureaucratic stuff. I have to get an NGO to be my partner, get permission from the UNHCR (after finding an NGO), and then finally get the Kenyan government to give me permission. And I leave for Tanzania next weekend, so I have a lot of work to do between now and then. Hopefully it all works out, and if it doesn't, I've decided I'm just going to go live in the slums and take African Dance Classes, and bake a lot of pumpkin bread which turned out delicious last night.
I'm realizing I actually know nothing, and that any of the information I learned in America really has no bearing on anything actually going on in Kenya (and I would imagine most places). I'm frustrated.
On the bright side it looks like I have a research topic. On the downside it takes place in the Dadaab refuge camp, which is the most populous refugee camp in the world, and I'll be there by myself. Now I have to deal with a lot of bureaucratic stuff. I have to get an NGO to be my partner, get permission from the UNHCR (after finding an NGO), and then finally get the Kenyan government to give me permission. And I leave for Tanzania next weekend, so I have a lot of work to do between now and then. Hopefully it all works out, and if it doesn't, I've decided I'm just going to go live in the slums and take African Dance Classes, and bake a lot of pumpkin bread which turned out delicious last night.
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Batman vs. The Joker
Now I’ll preface this with saying I just watched The Dark Knight yesterday, but I really couldn’t help but notice how much John McCain looks like the Joker. He’s got that smug, wide, toothless grin behind which he’s thinking about how he can’t wait to be president so that he can bring down the best in our society, and make them into the worst. How he can’t wait to disappoint Joe the Plumber, take away our health care, make the rest of the world hate us even more, and well- the list goes on. But it’s okay because at least he’ll be going against all those PRO-abortioners.
So not the greatest image...BUT, you can't tell me that both remind you of crazy, insane, I'm going to destroy the world and all its people kind of people. And if you need further proof, go rewatch the debate and just look at McCain as Obama answers questions next to The Dark Knight.
So not the greatest image...BUT, you can't tell me that both remind you of crazy, insane, I'm going to destroy the world and all its people kind of people. And if you need further proof, go rewatch the debate and just look at McCain as Obama answers questions next to The Dark Knight.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
No Big Deal
I really love Kenya. I do.
However I do not like the lack of health care and severely lacking communication skills.
Yesterday I made my first ever trip to a hospital. Not that I am actually sick enough to go to the hospital, but quality health care centers aren’t exactly plentiful here in Kenya (even though Nairobi is one of the medical centers of Africa- a somewhat frightening fact). Basically I paid a lot of money ( Kenyan standards which have recently become my own, not at all by American standards) to wait a long time, have my temperature taken, and to be handed a lot of medicine that I’m fairly certain won’t work. I’m pretty sure I have a worm living inside of me, and I’m pretty sure that my new Flora Norm medicine isn’t going to kill the bastard. Oh well. The uncontrollable burp fest that occurred for approximately 20 straight hours (a feat I never imagined possible, but oh it can, and it is not particularly fun), is at least under control for the time being, alleviating my classmates from having the smell the rotten eggs continuously coming out of my mouth. Gross I know; but if I had to suffer through it, so should all of you.
As far as communication skills; Our academic advisor decided to tell us TODAY that next week we are supposed to be going to our research sites to start getting ready for the actual month we are doing research. That means I don't actually have a place to live for a few days next week. In the next breath he also told us that I will not be allowed to go to the city that I had planned on going to. Fantastic. All of this info was known a little while ago, but like always- we’re not told anything because East Africans just seem to think that everyone is a mind reader.
So now I am planning on staying in Nairobi, where I can’t actually afford to live, and I don’t have a research topic. Fun.
I immediately decided that the only solution to my new problems was to take shots of whiskey. Too bad it was 9 in the morning and that would be inappropriate. Instead I’m just going to go see The Dark Night, sulk in the fact that I have a worm/amoeba eating through my intestines and doctors won’t help me, and that I am going to be homeless and stupid in a few weeks, and hope that miraculously NGOs, government agencies, and Kenyans start contacting me with the most valuable information in the world so that I can do my project.
On the upside, I found a place with fantastic smoothies and good cheese.
Oh, and tomorrow is my big Swahili test. Have I mentioned how I can't tell one word from the other.
No big deal.
However I do not like the lack of health care and severely lacking communication skills.
Yesterday I made my first ever trip to a hospital. Not that I am actually sick enough to go to the hospital, but quality health care centers aren’t exactly plentiful here in Kenya (even though Nairobi is one of the medical centers of Africa- a somewhat frightening fact). Basically I paid a lot of money ( Kenyan standards which have recently become my own, not at all by American standards) to wait a long time, have my temperature taken, and to be handed a lot of medicine that I’m fairly certain won’t work. I’m pretty sure I have a worm living inside of me, and I’m pretty sure that my new Flora Norm medicine isn’t going to kill the bastard. Oh well. The uncontrollable burp fest that occurred for approximately 20 straight hours (a feat I never imagined possible, but oh it can, and it is not particularly fun), is at least under control for the time being, alleviating my classmates from having the smell the rotten eggs continuously coming out of my mouth. Gross I know; but if I had to suffer through it, so should all of you.
As far as communication skills; Our academic advisor decided to tell us TODAY that next week we are supposed to be going to our research sites to start getting ready for the actual month we are doing research. That means I don't actually have a place to live for a few days next week. In the next breath he also told us that I will not be allowed to go to the city that I had planned on going to. Fantastic. All of this info was known a little while ago, but like always- we’re not told anything because East Africans just seem to think that everyone is a mind reader.
So now I am planning on staying in Nairobi, where I can’t actually afford to live, and I don’t have a research topic. Fun.
I immediately decided that the only solution to my new problems was to take shots of whiskey. Too bad it was 9 in the morning and that would be inappropriate. Instead I’m just going to go see The Dark Night, sulk in the fact that I have a worm/amoeba eating through my intestines and doctors won’t help me, and that I am going to be homeless and stupid in a few weeks, and hope that miraculously NGOs, government agencies, and Kenyans start contacting me with the most valuable information in the world so that I can do my project.
On the upside, I found a place with fantastic smoothies and good cheese.
Oh, and tomorrow is my big Swahili test. Have I mentioned how I can't tell one word from the other.
No big deal.
Friday, October 10, 2008
Obama The Musical
Yes, it's true folks. Now in addition to the numerous Obama bumper stickers, Obama t-shirts, the smiling face of Obama on the backs of Kenya's matatus (East Africa's answer to lack of public transportation and a scary, scary adventure), and the already popular Obama reggae song on the radio, Nairobi is now adding Obama: The Musical to the list of items.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
My First Jewish Holiday
I finally got over the fact that my parents were not going to send me to public school when I was about 15. It may have taken a long time, but I realized that the bomb threats and gang violence were probably excellent reasons I shouldn't attend Longwood. However, I still have not gotten over the fact that all those years when the Jewish holidays came about, I was still putting on my ridiculously stereotypical Catholic school girl uniform. Never mind the fact that Catholics enjoyed many more religious holidays, and usually at better times (such as the day after Halloween, which would have been my favorite had my parents allowed me to celebrate the holiday), I was jealous that Long Island was full of Jews and that they and their friends didn't have to go to school.
Who would have thought that I would travel across the world, to a nation where many people don't even know that Judaism exists (and if they do are shocked at the fact that people actually follow it), and have my first Jewish holiday. My program is filled with Jews, and unlike my days on Long Island, I am now enjoying the fruits of it.
I was even going to go to the temple services with them (although I have a feeling that going to a temple in Nairobi is not exactly a great example for my first Jewish experience), but unfortunately my stomach has decided to go haywire for the past week and has experienced every possible ailment known for a stomach, on a rotating schedule that I haven't quite figured out. So instead of enjoying my first Jewish holiday, instead I lay in bed and watched the best of Jennifer Lopez and Kate Winslet, because China has poured the best DVDs into Kenyan society that include 36 movies on one DVD, and have titles like "Lopez vs. Winslet". I love it. Now I can watch Monster in Law and Quills without ever having to get up to change the disc. I've also caught up on all the sleep I lost when I decided to have a sleepover to watch the debate and pig out on American food. I would like to think we got up to watch it because we like to be informed citizens who care about what is going on in the world, but really I think we just wanted an excuse for an Oreo overload and a feta cheese fest.
Of course it was also nice to actually see the candidates, and not just read the newspapers in a country where most people have decided Obama is already president, and that there is nothing wrong with him (ask someone if they know his views and policies you'll get a mighty laugh). This is the country that just deported the author of an anti-Obama book and didn't even really attempt to hide that it was for bogus reasons. You gotta love corruption and government organizations that make up their own rules on each of their whims.
Hope all is well in America and that the economy hasn't completely collapsed yet. It really stinks to see prices rising in Kenya and the cereal that I had put off buying because I wanted to save it until I really craved it, is now actually almost out of my price range. That being said, my price range has radically changed in a country where I can easily live off of nothing, and spending the equivalent of $5 is absolutely appalling and almost unconscionable.
Who would have thought that I would travel across the world, to a nation where many people don't even know that Judaism exists (and if they do are shocked at the fact that people actually follow it), and have my first Jewish holiday. My program is filled with Jews, and unlike my days on Long Island, I am now enjoying the fruits of it.
I was even going to go to the temple services with them (although I have a feeling that going to a temple in Nairobi is not exactly a great example for my first Jewish experience), but unfortunately my stomach has decided to go haywire for the past week and has experienced every possible ailment known for a stomach, on a rotating schedule that I haven't quite figured out. So instead of enjoying my first Jewish holiday, instead I lay in bed and watched the best of Jennifer Lopez and Kate Winslet, because China has poured the best DVDs into Kenyan society that include 36 movies on one DVD, and have titles like "Lopez vs. Winslet". I love it. Now I can watch Monster in Law and Quills without ever having to get up to change the disc. I've also caught up on all the sleep I lost when I decided to have a sleepover to watch the debate and pig out on American food. I would like to think we got up to watch it because we like to be informed citizens who care about what is going on in the world, but really I think we just wanted an excuse for an Oreo overload and a feta cheese fest.
Of course it was also nice to actually see the candidates, and not just read the newspapers in a country where most people have decided Obama is already president, and that there is nothing wrong with him (ask someone if they know his views and policies you'll get a mighty laugh). This is the country that just deported the author of an anti-Obama book and didn't even really attempt to hide that it was for bogus reasons. You gotta love corruption and government organizations that make up their own rules on each of their whims.
Hope all is well in America and that the economy hasn't completely collapsed yet. It really stinks to see prices rising in Kenya and the cereal that I had put off buying because I wanted to save it until I really craved it, is now actually almost out of my price range. That being said, my price range has radically changed in a country where I can easily live off of nothing, and spending the equivalent of $5 is absolutely appalling and almost unconscionable.
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Thumbs Up for Escaping Marriage
The Swahili language is impossible. The language is actually extremely easy, with possibly the most basic grammatical rules of any language, but EVERY word sounds exactly alike.
For example: One could say nyoko or nyoka. One means snake, the other to abuse. Don't ask me which one is which because I still can't tell. Kumi means 10 and kuma means something that would be too inappropriate to post.
My personal favorite was when I was trying to say "Ningependa kuenda kuogelea." Instead I said "Ningependa kuenda kuolea". My sentence changed from "I would like to go swimming" to "I would like to go get married."
Not the greatest thing to say when you are in a very remote village, where a marriage for me could have easily been set up. Personally I don't think I could take on the duties expected of a Muslim wife in the middle of nowhere.
Other than those slight language glitches, the fact that I couldn't speak to my Mama or Grandmother at all, and how I was pretty clueless the first couple of days concerning how to act, dress, and where I should go to the bathroom my village stay was wonderful. I would go back immediately if I could, and if it weren't blistering hot all the time with terrible humidity. But then again, I was able to bathe under the stars and go skinny dipping off a deserted island in the Indian Ocean. Life could be a worse.
I just happened to be there during Ramadan, the holiest month of the year for Muslims and also a month of fasting. So every morning, anytime between 2 and 4 I had some nice knocks on my bedroom door and my Baba calling out "Mog" to wake me up. I'll never understand the food choices- steaming hot ugali (maize floor and water boiled together) so that I couldn't even eat it without burning my hands, and cold fish. Why one thing could be heated and not the other will be a burning question that I just don't think will ever be answered. I will also never understand why I now have henna all over my feet and hands, and my nails will be bright orange for the next few months in celebration of the end of Ramadan.
I loved my family, and even tho we couldn't really talk we got used to each other pretty quickly, and soon I was realizing that they weren't kicking me out of the kitchen area to go on a walk with my 12 year old uncle/cousin because they didn't love me, but rather because my American cooking skills pale in comparison with the work they do. I was put on child duty all the time, and that mostly consisted of me giving them my camera and letting them play with it. I couldn't figure out who exactly was related to me, but I got used to a core group of people that continuously liked to laugh at me and my inability to speak to them.
They also all wanted me to fast, and when me just saying "No, I'm not Muslim" didn't work, I attempted the "Well, I have to take medicine every day, and eat when I take it, so I can't fast." The village then thought I had malaria, and it took a few days to dispel that myth. The idea of ANTI-malaria medication just was not something my limited Kiswahili was going to express.
We also spent a few days in Mombasa where I didn't do much more than catch up on my ice cream intake, and eat so much food that I have made myself sick.
Now we're back in Nairobi, where I am appreciating my wireless internet and connection to world news more than ever. The lack of humidity is also doing wonders for my hair, which I woke up one morning needing to cut immediately. So I did, and now I have no hair.
Here are some limited pictures of my family I lived with. Hopefully I will be able to add some more in the next few days.
For example: One could say nyoko or nyoka. One means snake, the other to abuse. Don't ask me which one is which because I still can't tell. Kumi means 10 and kuma means something that would be too inappropriate to post.
My personal favorite was when I was trying to say "Ningependa kuenda kuogelea." Instead I said "Ningependa kuenda kuolea". My sentence changed from "I would like to go swimming" to "I would like to go get married."
Not the greatest thing to say when you are in a very remote village, where a marriage for me could have easily been set up. Personally I don't think I could take on the duties expected of a Muslim wife in the middle of nowhere.
Other than those slight language glitches, the fact that I couldn't speak to my Mama or Grandmother at all, and how I was pretty clueless the first couple of days concerning how to act, dress, and where I should go to the bathroom my village stay was wonderful. I would go back immediately if I could, and if it weren't blistering hot all the time with terrible humidity. But then again, I was able to bathe under the stars and go skinny dipping off a deserted island in the Indian Ocean. Life could be a worse.
I just happened to be there during Ramadan, the holiest month of the year for Muslims and also a month of fasting. So every morning, anytime between 2 and 4 I had some nice knocks on my bedroom door and my Baba calling out "Mog" to wake me up. I'll never understand the food choices- steaming hot ugali (maize floor and water boiled together) so that I couldn't even eat it without burning my hands, and cold fish. Why one thing could be heated and not the other will be a burning question that I just don't think will ever be answered. I will also never understand why I now have henna all over my feet and hands, and my nails will be bright orange for the next few months in celebration of the end of Ramadan.
I loved my family, and even tho we couldn't really talk we got used to each other pretty quickly, and soon I was realizing that they weren't kicking me out of the kitchen area to go on a walk with my 12 year old uncle/cousin because they didn't love me, but rather because my American cooking skills pale in comparison with the work they do. I was put on child duty all the time, and that mostly consisted of me giving them my camera and letting them play with it. I couldn't figure out who exactly was related to me, but I got used to a core group of people that continuously liked to laugh at me and my inability to speak to them.
They also all wanted me to fast, and when me just saying "No, I'm not Muslim" didn't work, I attempted the "Well, I have to take medicine every day, and eat when I take it, so I can't fast." The village then thought I had malaria, and it took a few days to dispel that myth. The idea of ANTI-malaria medication just was not something my limited Kiswahili was going to express.
We also spent a few days in Mombasa where I didn't do much more than catch up on my ice cream intake, and eat so much food that I have made myself sick.
Now we're back in Nairobi, where I am appreciating my wireless internet and connection to world news more than ever. The lack of humidity is also doing wonders for my hair, which I woke up one morning needing to cut immediately. So I did, and now I have no hair.
Here are some limited pictures of my family I lived with. Hopefully I will be able to add some more in the next few days.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Interesting Cultural Tidbit
If asking men and women if they are married, the word is different. For men, the verb is active and for women it is in the passive form. Men marry a woman, while a woman gets married to a man. Subtle, but begins to show just a bit of the gender inequality over here.
Boo.
Boo.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Interesting Times
I've been sucked into the America of Kenya..otherwise known as Java. I'm trying to console myself with selling with the fact that I am giving up electricity and all other modern day conveniences for two weeks while I go to the coast (and perhaps learn to spear fish). Too bad I'm coming to the realization that as a woman, a rural village that still spear fishes may not be too welcoming of having a woman learn the trade.
In other news...being in Kenya at this particular time has been pretty fascinating. In case anybody needs a quick catch up: elections last year went terribly, there was a lot of violence in the beginning of the year, and now there is a power sharing agreement in place. President Kibaki is a Kikuyu and most people agree that he lost the election. Prime Minister Odinga is a Luo and now the Prime Minister, but most people believe he won the election.
Interesting for many reasons: Everywhere you go people have something bad to say about the government. Except for my house, in my very privileged Kikuyu household, which thinks that everything is peachy. Probably because Kikuyu's get every government job/ every job available; might be some good cause for a little bit of hostility in the rest of the country.
More interesting because of the ties to FGM (as the west calls it) or female circumcision (as we are told we better call it here). Not that I would ever be a proponent for female circumcision for many many reasons, but being here and talking about in a non-western mindset certainly makes the issue a lot more meaningful and deeper than any class full of middle class white kids could really understand. It also all ties back to the political parties, and a large part of why Kenyatta (a Kikuyu) became the first president instead of Odinga (the current Prime Minister's father and Luo) because the Kikuyu's rounded up all the tribes that practiced circumcision and pitted them against the tribes that don't practice circumcision which just happens to be the Luos and two other small tribes with littler power at all. Luos have been discriminated against and are considered "children" as circumcision rites usually signify the transition from childhood to adulthood.
So last year, when Odinga was almost elected President it would have been monumental as it would have meant a Luo in power, and the possible decline of tribal tensions since Kikuyu groups would not have been able to completely control all agencies.
That is a hugely simplified and generalized explanation of some huge issues that are going on here, but it has definitely been interesting to hear and see people's obvious and resentment towards the current political situation. The newspapers are already filled with talk of the 2012 elections.
The newspapers are also filled with Obama. So much so that when I start reading American news, I am shocked to find out that McCain is still a candidate (although I'm still confused as to why McCain is even a candidate to begin with...or a Republican to begin with. Can't Obama just perform a coup?) Everyone loves Obama here (except for the Kikuyus since he is a "Luo"). The newspaper had a section of Luo children's perspectives on what will happen if Obama wins and most of them are about him making a personal appearance and giving them candy, or building skyscrapers and paving streets with gold in Luo areas. It's not exactly understood that his social views and values wouldn't really mesh well with Kenyans, and many people would probably actually Sarah Palin's crazy ridiculous ideas (Hey guys, Let's ban books in the library!), and complete lack of knowledge.
But that's a rant for another day...
In other news...being in Kenya at this particular time has been pretty fascinating. In case anybody needs a quick catch up: elections last year went terribly, there was a lot of violence in the beginning of the year, and now there is a power sharing agreement in place. President Kibaki is a Kikuyu and most people agree that he lost the election. Prime Minister Odinga is a Luo and now the Prime Minister, but most people believe he won the election.
Interesting for many reasons: Everywhere you go people have something bad to say about the government. Except for my house, in my very privileged Kikuyu household, which thinks that everything is peachy. Probably because Kikuyu's get every government job/ every job available; might be some good cause for a little bit of hostility in the rest of the country.
More interesting because of the ties to FGM (as the west calls it) or female circumcision (as we are told we better call it here). Not that I would ever be a proponent for female circumcision for many many reasons, but being here and talking about in a non-western mindset certainly makes the issue a lot more meaningful and deeper than any class full of middle class white kids could really understand. It also all ties back to the political parties, and a large part of why Kenyatta (a Kikuyu) became the first president instead of Odinga (the current Prime Minister's father and Luo) because the Kikuyu's rounded up all the tribes that practiced circumcision and pitted them against the tribes that don't practice circumcision which just happens to be the Luos and two other small tribes with littler power at all. Luos have been discriminated against and are considered "children" as circumcision rites usually signify the transition from childhood to adulthood.
So last year, when Odinga was almost elected President it would have been monumental as it would have meant a Luo in power, and the possible decline of tribal tensions since Kikuyu groups would not have been able to completely control all agencies.
That is a hugely simplified and generalized explanation of some huge issues that are going on here, but it has definitely been interesting to hear and see people's obvious and resentment towards the current political situation. The newspapers are already filled with talk of the 2012 elections.
The newspapers are also filled with Obama. So much so that when I start reading American news, I am shocked to find out that McCain is still a candidate (although I'm still confused as to why McCain is even a candidate to begin with...or a Republican to begin with. Can't Obama just perform a coup?) Everyone loves Obama here (except for the Kikuyus since he is a "Luo"). The newspaper had a section of Luo children's perspectives on what will happen if Obama wins and most of them are about him making a personal appearance and giving them candy, or building skyscrapers and paving streets with gold in Luo areas. It's not exactly understood that his social views and values wouldn't really mesh well with Kenyans, and many people would probably actually Sarah Palin's crazy ridiculous ideas (Hey guys, Let's ban books in the library!), and complete lack of knowledge.
But that's a rant for another day...
Monday, September 15, 2008
New Life Goal: Learn to Spear Fish
I know that you all wait in daily anticipation of my blog updates, because of their undeniable charm and wonderful wit, but slow internet connections and the fact that I am constantly in class (including Saturdays), keeps me from venturing through the tedious chore of reading emails and writing here.
Kenya is absolutely wonderful, and my Swahili is going by so quickly. We have classes for three hours a day, and then more lectures in the afternoon. Sometimes we go on field trips like a walk through Kibera (the largest slum in Africa), or to the UN Headquarters to see UN Habitat, or to the Kenya National Committee on Human Rights. We've definitely met tons of amazing and interesting people.
We've also started to explore how to have fun (although time is limited for that since we're in class about 7 hours a day, and can't walk anywhere after dark). We did manage to celebrate a birthday at a fancy restaurant where I ate several people's portion sized food plus beers and spent less than $8. We also went out dancing on Saturday night and again I came to the realization of how fabulous foreign clubs are because all they play is American music from the 90s...ie the Macarana. Beautiful.
Later in the week we'll be departing for the coast where I will actually have to rough it for a bit. I'm also trying to think of a legit research project to do that involves me going to a remote village on the coast and learning how to spear fish. My original plan doesn't seem like it is going to work out because the SIT office in Vermont isn't letting us travel west of Nairobi even though it is completely safe and the US embassy has lifted all travel restrictions. So therefore I've just decided to learn one of the greatest skills ever: spear fishing, which of course will come into PLENTY of use back in the US.
I'm also planning on doing some traveling after the program, and although I really want to go see gorillas in Rwanda maybe I can do a trip through the Rift Valley of Kenya as well.
Hope all is well!
Kenya is absolutely wonderful, and my Swahili is going by so quickly. We have classes for three hours a day, and then more lectures in the afternoon. Sometimes we go on field trips like a walk through Kibera (the largest slum in Africa), or to the UN Headquarters to see UN Habitat, or to the Kenya National Committee on Human Rights. We've definitely met tons of amazing and interesting people.
We've also started to explore how to have fun (although time is limited for that since we're in class about 7 hours a day, and can't walk anywhere after dark). We did manage to celebrate a birthday at a fancy restaurant where I ate several people's portion sized food plus beers and spent less than $8. We also went out dancing on Saturday night and again I came to the realization of how fabulous foreign clubs are because all they play is American music from the 90s...ie the Macarana. Beautiful.
Later in the week we'll be departing for the coast where I will actually have to rough it for a bit. I'm also trying to think of a legit research project to do that involves me going to a remote village on the coast and learning how to spear fish. My original plan doesn't seem like it is going to work out because the SIT office in Vermont isn't letting us travel west of Nairobi even though it is completely safe and the US embassy has lifted all travel restrictions. So therefore I've just decided to learn one of the greatest skills ever: spear fishing, which of course will come into PLENTY of use back in the US.
I'm also planning on doing some traveling after the program, and although I really want to go see gorillas in Rwanda maybe I can do a trip through the Rift Valley of Kenya as well.
Hope all is well!
Sunday, September 7, 2008
Why Noise Producing Toys should be Banned
I have finally found my home and unpacked which is a huge relief after unpacking and repacking, sleeping in group rooms, and just generally hanging out with twenty Americans all the time. My host family is pretty awesome, especially my Mama who I think may be one of the coolest women in Kenya. Not only does she speak 4 languages, she also has 2 masters degrees then her PhD, and travels all over for her job as a scientist at the Nairobi Museum. Malaika, my new 4 year old sister, is a bit rambunctious but fun to have around. Although having my hair pulled and being jumped on while I am lying in bed are definitively things I'm going to have to get used to. I'm living in a rather nice neighborhood, and my apartment is gated and has a guard 24 hours a day. It can also steal wireless internet from the apartment complex behind us, which is nice and unexpected. However, like most internet connections here in Kenya, it's unfathomably slow and I don't expect to use it very much; unfortunately letting my emails pile up over days can be quite the hassle when you have an internet connection this slow.
I've also met my "Aunt" and "cousins" and will probably be seeing them once a week after we attend church; the NPC- Nairobi Pentecostal Church.. I haven't quite gotten the hang of the hand raising, hip swaying, dancing crazy worship, but maybe if I practice hard enough I'll be a pro by the end.
Our group gave up the tourist things and instead focused on finally actually starting to acclimate to Kenya. We were very much coddled the first few days. Our last day of orientation was a tour of the city, and in many ways it broke my heart and disturbed me greatly. I was prepared for poverty, and slums, and all of the heartbreaking stuff you see on tv but like to pretend doesn't really exist. I wasn't prepared to see what I thought were these things, and then be told that we weren't even looking at poverty at this point and then drive through the area that holds the richest of the rich, and all their excesses including personal water slides usually reserved for water parks. I also went and played with some babies at an orphanage, and am astounded at how well behaved these children are, and how easily they eat. I'm chalking it up to the fact that batteries were taken out of all their toys, and were therefore not surrounded by heinous, miserable toy noise 24 hours a day. That stuff is awful. Malaika unfortunately just got a toy that plays a Chinese pop song over and over again.
Hope all is well in America.
I've also met my "Aunt" and "cousins" and will probably be seeing them once a week after we attend church; the NPC- Nairobi Pentecostal Church.. I haven't quite gotten the hang of the hand raising, hip swaying, dancing crazy worship, but maybe if I practice hard enough I'll be a pro by the end.
Our group gave up the tourist things and instead focused on finally actually starting to acclimate to Kenya. We were very much coddled the first few days. Our last day of orientation was a tour of the city, and in many ways it broke my heart and disturbed me greatly. I was prepared for poverty, and slums, and all of the heartbreaking stuff you see on tv but like to pretend doesn't really exist. I wasn't prepared to see what I thought were these things, and then be told that we weren't even looking at poverty at this point and then drive through the area that holds the richest of the rich, and all their excesses including personal water slides usually reserved for water parks. I also went and played with some babies at an orphanage, and am astounded at how well behaved these children are, and how easily they eat. I'm chalking it up to the fact that batteries were taken out of all their toys, and were therefore not surrounded by heinous, miserable toy noise 24 hours a day. That stuff is awful. Malaika unfortunately just got a toy that plays a Chinese pop song over and over again.
Hope all is well in America.
Wednesday, September 3, 2008
Luckily, I Can Dig It
So I'm in Kenya. We didn't exactly rough it like we expected it to for orientation, but it's still been an interesting experience. Our first day we were treated like real tourists and went and played with giraffes and kissed them. By kiss I mean put food pellets between our lips and have the giraffes eat them/ slobber all over us.
The touristy stuff ended there. Instead we were broken up into groups and sent on various trips throughout Nairobi. Basically they dropped us off and told us they would pick us up in four hours, and to just find out all you could. I think the real lesson was just to get used to being completely out of your comfort zone and having to rely on each other and navigate your way through the people surrounding you. My group was sent to the Nairobi (private) and Kenyatta (public) hospitals. So, since we knew absolutely nothing about either of these places we at first thought that Nairobi Hospital was the public one and we were so impressed by the facilities. Then we went to Kenyatta and realized we were very very mistaken. I was impressed with how many programs they had, but the lines were out of control and it was quite run down. It was also interesting to note how many international doctors were present at the private hospital. I think the coolest part were all the women's programs like the Gender Based Violence center and the fact that the had a program that advocated and supplied female condoms. Yay female empowerment! They also run the programs for prisoners, and so therefore we saw several inmates (with blue striped jumpsuits and matching sunhats!),
We moved locations today so we are actually in Nairobi now. We're staying in a very nice area, and it is by our school so I will have much easier internet access than expected. And when I am smart enough to charge my computer I can even take it to the coffee shop that is downstairs, get free internet access, and treat myself to a ridiculous piece of cake that is insanely cheap, and will supplement my ridiculously small diet the rest of the time which mostly consists of potatoes and tomatoes. My cravings have already begun. Bad bad sign.
Hope everything is going well in the US....I feel so removed without internet access. I do have a phone now, so if you ask I can give you my number if you are ever so inclined to spend lots of money on phone charges. Love you all.
The touristy stuff ended there. Instead we were broken up into groups and sent on various trips throughout Nairobi. Basically they dropped us off and told us they would pick us up in four hours, and to just find out all you could. I think the real lesson was just to get used to being completely out of your comfort zone and having to rely on each other and navigate your way through the people surrounding you. My group was sent to the Nairobi (private) and Kenyatta (public) hospitals. So, since we knew absolutely nothing about either of these places we at first thought that Nairobi Hospital was the public one and we were so impressed by the facilities. Then we went to Kenyatta and realized we were very very mistaken. I was impressed with how many programs they had, but the lines were out of control and it was quite run down. It was also interesting to note how many international doctors were present at the private hospital. I think the coolest part were all the women's programs like the Gender Based Violence center and the fact that the had a program that advocated and supplied female condoms. Yay female empowerment! They also run the programs for prisoners, and so therefore we saw several inmates (with blue striped jumpsuits and matching sunhats!),
We moved locations today so we are actually in Nairobi now. We're staying in a very nice area, and it is by our school so I will have much easier internet access than expected. And when I am smart enough to charge my computer I can even take it to the coffee shop that is downstairs, get free internet access, and treat myself to a ridiculous piece of cake that is insanely cheap, and will supplement my ridiculously small diet the rest of the time which mostly consists of potatoes and tomatoes. My cravings have already begun. Bad bad sign.
Hope everything is going well in the US....I feel so removed without internet access. I do have a phone now, so if you ask I can give you my number if you are ever so inclined to spend lots of money on phone charges. Love you all.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
My Makeshift Hospital
I will be in Kenya in less than a week. So will my new headlamp, pocket knife, shnazzy adventure pants and shoes, water purifying drops, plus various other gadgets, medications, and fashion statements that are all ready and prepared for my trek through Kenya. I could also open up a business as a pharmacy or hospital as I have the makings to fix any easy to catch and easy to cure illness or accident. Kenyan food won't be getting the best of me!
Whether or not I will actually get all of it put into a somewhat organized mess, and then fit that mess into my backpack remains to be seen. Right now it is thrown around my room in various frightening heaps that make me want to crawl under my bed and sleep (which is probably something I should do anyway as sleep has eluded me lately and I am therefore cranky and mean).
Fortunately my parents are stocking me up with all the bad food I could possibly ever want, as I am pretty sure I am going to be missing out on many of those joys come Sunday. I might feel a little guilty indulging my sweet tooth as locals riot for real food.
So if you want to talk to me before I depart...call me! I have no idea what my internet situation will be like once I get to Kenya, and therefore you might not hear from me regularly at all. My goal is to get internet access once a week, but we'll see how that pans out. Emails are always welcome (HINT HINT), and emails telling me how wonderful, beautiful, and charming I am are even more welcome.
I promise not to swim in any lakes this time. I have a feeling that my luck of catching a parasite has probably run out, and I really don't want to add suffering from trypanosomiasis to my list of adventures this next semester.
Whether or not I will actually get all of it put into a somewhat organized mess, and then fit that mess into my backpack remains to be seen. Right now it is thrown around my room in various frightening heaps that make me want to crawl under my bed and sleep (which is probably something I should do anyway as sleep has eluded me lately and I am therefore cranky and mean).
Fortunately my parents are stocking me up with all the bad food I could possibly ever want, as I am pretty sure I am going to be missing out on many of those joys come Sunday. I might feel a little guilty indulging my sweet tooth as locals riot for real food.
So if you want to talk to me before I depart...call me! I have no idea what my internet situation will be like once I get to Kenya, and therefore you might not hear from me regularly at all. My goal is to get internet access once a week, but we'll see how that pans out. Emails are always welcome (HINT HINT), and emails telling me how wonderful, beautiful, and charming I am are even more welcome.
I promise not to swim in any lakes this time. I have a feeling that my luck of catching a parasite has probably run out, and I really don't want to add suffering from trypanosomiasis to my list of adventures this next semester.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Just Following the Family Trend
It's no secret that I have two wonderful parents. It's also no secret that their wonderful children occasionally like to call in emergency requests for cross country moves and the like; whether it be to escape a crazy fiance, or because you've suddenly come down with appendicitis the day before you are moving apartments, or because you seem to have every health ailment known to mankind. Luckily, so far, the rents have come on through for each of these calls and my case was no different.
After a wonderful weekend in LA filled with poker playing, lying on the beaches of Malibu, and deciding not to be a vegan because of pancakes, cupcakes, and smoothies (only a week after first deciding to become a vegan), I returned to San Francisco exhausted, cranky, and wanting nothing more to sleep. Of course the cat that I was taking care of would have none of the third, and her ability to wake me up at 4 am every day with an eerie precision still amazes me.
By Tuesday I had received a nasty email from the woman I subleted from, and I promptly broke down in tears, called my mother and said "I just want to come home" several times while she was on her way to Long Island. My siblings and I tend to have fantastic timing in our times of need. After a few more calls to siblings and friends, who assured me I was making a good decision and not being a whiny quitter, I decided to go home. Now after a crazy cross country drive in less than three days, I am home just in time to have the Ryan family descend upon Virginia and my life to become filled with beautiful nieces and nephews and all the ridiculous noise producing toys that come with being surrounded by almost four and unders.
So although I had to leave San Francisco a week early, and missed out on every making it the Exploratorium, I instead get a week to regain my sanity and unpack/repack for Kenya, go shopping, and argue with my older brother that the butterfly stroke is legit and he should probably learn how to do it before he bashes it. As an added perk, my parents will be doing the grocery shopping which means I don't need to resort to the always nutritious array of pop tarts, chocolate bars, and trans-fat filled pastries at work to suffice as my daily lunch. This may be the most exciting of all.
Here is a selection of pictures from the summer. Enjoy.
After a wonderful weekend in LA filled with poker playing, lying on the beaches of Malibu, and deciding not to be a vegan because of pancakes, cupcakes, and smoothies (only a week after first deciding to become a vegan), I returned to San Francisco exhausted, cranky, and wanting nothing more to sleep. Of course the cat that I was taking care of would have none of the third, and her ability to wake me up at 4 am every day with an eerie precision still amazes me.
By Tuesday I had received a nasty email from the woman I subleted from, and I promptly broke down in tears, called my mother and said "I just want to come home" several times while she was on her way to Long Island. My siblings and I tend to have fantastic timing in our times of need. After a few more calls to siblings and friends, who assured me I was making a good decision and not being a whiny quitter, I decided to go home. Now after a crazy cross country drive in less than three days, I am home just in time to have the Ryan family descend upon Virginia and my life to become filled with beautiful nieces and nephews and all the ridiculous noise producing toys that come with being surrounded by almost four and unders.
So although I had to leave San Francisco a week early, and missed out on every making it the Exploratorium, I instead get a week to regain my sanity and unpack/repack for Kenya, go shopping, and argue with my older brother that the butterfly stroke is legit and he should probably learn how to do it before he bashes it. As an added perk, my parents will be doing the grocery shopping which means I don't need to resort to the always nutritious array of pop tarts, chocolate bars, and trans-fat filled pastries at work to suffice as my daily lunch. This may be the most exciting of all.
Here is a selection of pictures from the summer. Enjoy.
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Needles, Cookers, and Water- Oh My!
This past week has had me answering the question "So is it true you work for some sort of sex hotline thing?" usually accompanied by a quizzical look, and the assumption that this could not be true. Well, it isn't true. It just happens that crazy people call me every day, and that most of my hours are spent about talking about weird, wild, and absurd things. But, to prove I'm not a sex therapist/ sexologist/ sex advice giver (which apparently friends of friends have come to believe I am), I will share the details of needle exchange.
I was a little nervous the first time I did needle exchange, fully expecting most of the clientele to be like the men on the side of the road that ask me if they can give me a sponge bath. Instead, the program has given me a new perspective on who's using drugs and how many people show up that I would never expect. IT does a lot to expel a lot of myths about drug addicts and the homeless, and has really challenged how I see this part of the population and my reaction to all the people on the streets of San Francisco. The sites are all over the city (including one 2 minutes away from my apartment which is wonderfully convenient, especially on cold and windy nights), and definitely all come with their own character. As an added bonus, I'm now also an expert on making drug paraphernalia and can make you a cooker for some dope in no time and am now the proud owner of a safe injection manual.
In other news, I'm going to LA this weekend. Most people up here in San Francisco are making fun of me for choosing to go there, but oh well. At least it won't be 50 degrees outside in the middle of August. Unfortunately, it means putting off much needed work a few days. Maybe someday I will get over my issues of procrastination.
I was a little nervous the first time I did needle exchange, fully expecting most of the clientele to be like the men on the side of the road that ask me if they can give me a sponge bath. Instead, the program has given me a new perspective on who's using drugs and how many people show up that I would never expect. IT does a lot to expel a lot of myths about drug addicts and the homeless, and has really challenged how I see this part of the population and my reaction to all the people on the streets of San Francisco. The sites are all over the city (including one 2 minutes away from my apartment which is wonderfully convenient, especially on cold and windy nights), and definitely all come with their own character. As an added bonus, I'm now also an expert on making drug paraphernalia and can make you a cooker for some dope in no time and am now the proud owner of a safe injection manual.
In other news, I'm going to LA this weekend. Most people up here in San Francisco are making fun of me for choosing to go there, but oh well. At least it won't be 50 degrees outside in the middle of August. Unfortunately, it means putting off much needed work a few days. Maybe someday I will get over my issues of procrastination.
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
Reality Hits
The past eight months have basically been a breeze, and of course that is slowly coming to an end. Well maybe not so slowly, instead I let reality crash right down on my pretty head and have realized I have tons and tons of work to complete before Kenya. Luckily I've enjoyed my last few days here, because I've since realized I need to become somewhat of an isolationist these next few weeks here so that I can actually get back into the swing of doing schoolwork. Silly me thinking I could slide by with little more than Wikipedia for the rest of my life.
My new place is quite fantastic. It did however come equipped with a ginormous cat that likes to wake me up every morning at 6 am by plopping down on me, and not going away until I acknowledge its presence and pet it for an hour. I didn't have to buy a monthly public transportation ticket because I'm actually in the city and can walk to work and most places of interest, and then hop on a bus (which then gives you a ticket that you can sneak around with for the rest of the day which is wonderful and cost effective for me) whenever I feel the urge to go somewhere a bit further. I've even found parking, and my car has been safe so far after the near loss event.
San Francisco and its hippies seem to have gotten the best of me tho, as I've decided to go vegan. Well, I'm trying it out for two weeks at least. We'll see. Soy ice cream is surprisingly delicious, and am amazed I wasn't turned on to it earlier. I think I may overdose on soy products soon and should probably do a little more research in how to avoid that. I even went crazy and bought hemp bagels...feeling every bit as ridiculous as I should for such things.
This weekend it was beautiful for a change (which of course I am paying for this week as I FREEZE!!!!) but I got outside, and built some trails through a forest and went to a music festival.
I suppose I should go back to doing real work, trying to figure out what I'm going to be doing in Kenya since I live in 25 days! Yay!!!
My new place is quite fantastic. It did however come equipped with a ginormous cat that likes to wake me up every morning at 6 am by plopping down on me, and not going away until I acknowledge its presence and pet it for an hour. I didn't have to buy a monthly public transportation ticket because I'm actually in the city and can walk to work and most places of interest, and then hop on a bus (which then gives you a ticket that you can sneak around with for the rest of the day which is wonderful and cost effective for me) whenever I feel the urge to go somewhere a bit further. I've even found parking, and my car has been safe so far after the near loss event.
San Francisco and its hippies seem to have gotten the best of me tho, as I've decided to go vegan. Well, I'm trying it out for two weeks at least. We'll see. Soy ice cream is surprisingly delicious, and am amazed I wasn't turned on to it earlier. I think I may overdose on soy products soon and should probably do a little more research in how to avoid that. I even went crazy and bought hemp bagels...feeling every bit as ridiculous as I should for such things.
This weekend it was beautiful for a change (which of course I am paying for this week as I FREEZE!!!!) but I got outside, and built some trails through a forest and went to a music festival.
I suppose I should go back to doing real work, trying to figure out what I'm going to be doing in Kenya since I live in 25 days! Yay!!!
Friday, August 1, 2008
The Case of the Car that Should have Been Stolen
My apartment sublet ended yesterday, and although I have a place to stay for August I needed to stay at a different friends house last night. So last night I carried up a heap belongings to his house, and stuck them in a pile. As I was off to work I tried to find my car keys to go get a sweater out of my car, and when I couldn't find them I just thought they were somewhere in my pile and I would find them later when I got home.
I just so happened to walk by my car on the way to work, and saw a piece of paper that I assumed to be a ticket (although I couldn't figure out why), and so picked it up. Instead it was a note that said "Found your car keys- I am homeless and sleep on Stevenson an Duboce. My name is Brian."
Well Brian may be the greatest man ever, as he could have easily had a new car (and home for him!), plus all my belongings stashed in my trunk. It took me a bit to find him, but when I did I had the perfect timing to interfere with the mean security guard that was yelling at him.
So when I am not searching for sleeping homeless men, I am still having a wonderful time (well at least most of the time). I no longer have to commute more than 2 hours every day, which is wonderful. Although I'll no longer be living next to the projects, by no means will I have less than my fair share of addicts and overdoses. Now I'll just be even more aware of the late night ambulance runs through the Mission, where I'll be staying. At least I'm not homeless and the number of gun fights just a few blocks away will be dramatically reduced.
Yesterday my roommate locked us out of our apartment as we were moving all our stuff out. Luckily my roommate had a bit of an interesting youth and was able to break back into our apartment in a matter of minutes making me feel so safe. I then convinced her to take the day off of work and join me on an impromptu trip to Muir Woods to see the Redwoods and go hiking. It was beautiful.
29 more days until Kenya!
I just so happened to walk by my car on the way to work, and saw a piece of paper that I assumed to be a ticket (although I couldn't figure out why), and so picked it up. Instead it was a note that said "Found your car keys- I am homeless and sleep on Stevenson an Duboce. My name is Brian."
Well Brian may be the greatest man ever, as he could have easily had a new car (and home for him!), plus all my belongings stashed in my trunk. It took me a bit to find him, but when I did I had the perfect timing to interfere with the mean security guard that was yelling at him.
So when I am not searching for sleeping homeless men, I am still having a wonderful time (well at least most of the time). I no longer have to commute more than 2 hours every day, which is wonderful. Although I'll no longer be living next to the projects, by no means will I have less than my fair share of addicts and overdoses. Now I'll just be even more aware of the late night ambulance runs through the Mission, where I'll be staying. At least I'm not homeless and the number of gun fights just a few blocks away will be dramatically reduced.
Yesterday my roommate locked us out of our apartment as we were moving all our stuff out. Luckily my roommate had a bit of an interesting youth and was able to break back into our apartment in a matter of minutes making me feel so safe. I then convinced her to take the day off of work and join me on an impromptu trip to Muir Woods to see the Redwoods and go hiking. It was beautiful.
29 more days until Kenya!
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Yes, I Am Still Alive
I apologize for never updating the blog. After having several emails and phone calls to see if I'm still alive, I decided it was finally time to get on this. Apparently previous posts about crack central and the like may have left some people doubting my ability to survive the summer.
Well, I am alive, and fabulous as ever. I am absolutely loving this city, and my summer here. Work has been busy, but interesting, and am simply amazed everyday what people will do and say. The entertainment I get by watching 6th street from my window at work is also quite fabulous. It promises to get even more entertaining since the mayor just declared his candidacy for governor, and suddenly this city sees police officers actually patrolling the streets and picking up all the sketchers. I'm gonna miss the guy that lip syncs James Brown songs while he's high and unable to match his words with the actual music.
Riding the T on a daily basis has been more than educational, as I'm now fairly certain I now know how to use any type of drug I wish. I've also been asked out by San Francisco Police Officers who informed me that even if I hadn't paid to ride the T, he would have let me go without a ticket, and just wanted to have lunch with me. Sunday morning I was proposed to. So now, if I do leave San Francisco as an addict succumbing to my ridiculous surroundings, I know that I can at least find a man to marry me.
The city has shown me that I'm not quite as open-minded as I thought I was, and has made me realize that I'm not quite sure I really want to be that open-minded. Anything really does go out here, and am constantly shocked by what I see and hear. I love that people are free to be who they are, and to express themselves...but does it have to be on the busiest corner of the city for everyone to see?
It's also the only place where I know that one minute I can watch a man blatantly do a line of coke, and the next be having a conversation about the Murakami novel I'm reading with said man. San Francisco loves its books, and I have shown remarkable strength in resisting the urge to enter every amazing bookstore I see.
Other than work, I have been playing quite hard as well. I have found a few great people to hang out with, and am enjoying my nights and weekends immensely.
That's all for now. If something interesting happens, I will be sure to post it. If not, don't worry, I'm still alive and kicking. Pictures coming soon.
Well, I am alive, and fabulous as ever. I am absolutely loving this city, and my summer here. Work has been busy, but interesting, and am simply amazed everyday what people will do and say. The entertainment I get by watching 6th street from my window at work is also quite fabulous. It promises to get even more entertaining since the mayor just declared his candidacy for governor, and suddenly this city sees police officers actually patrolling the streets and picking up all the sketchers. I'm gonna miss the guy that lip syncs James Brown songs while he's high and unable to match his words with the actual music.
Riding the T on a daily basis has been more than educational, as I'm now fairly certain I now know how to use any type of drug I wish. I've also been asked out by San Francisco Police Officers who informed me that even if I hadn't paid to ride the T, he would have let me go without a ticket, and just wanted to have lunch with me. Sunday morning I was proposed to. So now, if I do leave San Francisco as an addict succumbing to my ridiculous surroundings, I know that I can at least find a man to marry me.
The city has shown me that I'm not quite as open-minded as I thought I was, and has made me realize that I'm not quite sure I really want to be that open-minded. Anything really does go out here, and am constantly shocked by what I see and hear. I love that people are free to be who they are, and to express themselves...but does it have to be on the busiest corner of the city for everyone to see?
It's also the only place where I know that one minute I can watch a man blatantly do a line of coke, and the next be having a conversation about the Murakami novel I'm reading with said man. San Francisco loves its books, and I have shown remarkable strength in resisting the urge to enter every amazing bookstore I see.
Other than work, I have been playing quite hard as well. I have found a few great people to hang out with, and am enjoying my nights and weekends immensely.
That's all for now. If something interesting happens, I will be sure to post it. If not, don't worry, I'm still alive and kicking. Pictures coming soon.
Monday, June 30, 2008
Kittens and Queers
Oh San Francisco...you are an experience.
First things first, my roommate and I rescued the most adorable kitten in the world last Wednesday. We believe it's a girl, and are completely in love with it. If anybody wants a kitten come take it!!!!
This weekend was Pride Weekend, the huge GLBT celebration here featuring Dikes on Bikes and pretty much anything else you can ever imagine (including gay pride rainbow colored crosses). Definitely not something I would ever take my mother to. I would like to think of myself as pretty open minded about almost everything, but even I felt that some things were taken a little bit too far yesterday, and am wishing that I had missed out on seeing some of the things I saw. I am living in a city where the law allows nudity as long as you have footwear on, but yesterday took everything to the absolutely extreme. At least I could take a break from the extreme sights with fabulous overpriced funnel cake when needed. Unfortunately I missed Cindy Lauper's performance, who apparently has a number 1 hit on gay radio.
Today I have off from work in order to allow everyone to recuperate from Pride Weekend. I have completed my training, so I can finally move up in the world. Last week I was put in charge of making posters for Pride weekend, which included me washing lubricant off of condoms for hours so that we could hang them up on poster board. Now there's something I never really expected to do.
I have given up on the job search as nobody wants to hire someone leaving in seven weeks.
Here's some pictures of my new kitten and, some of the less ridiculous pictures of Pride weekend (you would be amazed at what some people felt comfortable taking pictures of). I've actually realized how few appropriate pictures I actually have, and I was being hugely conservative yesterday. That's San Francisco for you.
First things first, my roommate and I rescued the most adorable kitten in the world last Wednesday. We believe it's a girl, and are completely in love with it. If anybody wants a kitten come take it!!!!
This weekend was Pride Weekend, the huge GLBT celebration here featuring Dikes on Bikes and pretty much anything else you can ever imagine (including gay pride rainbow colored crosses). Definitely not something I would ever take my mother to. I would like to think of myself as pretty open minded about almost everything, but even I felt that some things were taken a little bit too far yesterday, and am wishing that I had missed out on seeing some of the things I saw. I am living in a city where the law allows nudity as long as you have footwear on, but yesterday took everything to the absolutely extreme. At least I could take a break from the extreme sights with fabulous overpriced funnel cake when needed. Unfortunately I missed Cindy Lauper's performance, who apparently has a number 1 hit on gay radio.
Today I have off from work in order to allow everyone to recuperate from Pride Weekend. I have completed my training, so I can finally move up in the world. Last week I was put in charge of making posters for Pride weekend, which included me washing lubricant off of condoms for hours so that we could hang them up on poster board. Now there's something I never really expected to do.
I have given up on the job search as nobody wants to hire someone leaving in seven weeks.
Here's some pictures of my new kitten and, some of the less ridiculous pictures of Pride weekend (you would be amazed at what some people felt comfortable taking pictures of). I've actually realized how few appropriate pictures I actually have, and I was being hugely conservative yesterday. That's San Francisco for you.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
The Bible Strip
Somehow, out of all the areas I could have chosen to live in, I chose the Bible belt of San Francisco. While learning how awful public transportation in San Francisco is (which is truly, truly terrible and something I will probably reiterate in every post to come), I have also been able to take in the huge number of Christian stores and churches in the neighborhood fairly close to me. Unfortunately, I am also pretty sure that it is breeding ground for drug addicts and prostitutes, and therefore don't make any plans of trudging through there on my own anytime soon. There is however a church with Samuel L. Jackson as the pastor. What do you think the chances are that it's the Samuel L. Jackson? (I just looked up his biography and nowhere does it state that he is pastor of the Philidelphia Church of Christ...shucks). I haven't been preached to directly yet, I have however been wildly entertained by crazy mothers blasting their young children (who are clearly completely uninterested) about the Lord repeatedly on the subway (which is the slowest moving mobile machine I have ever encountered).
My time at the SFAF has been uneventful up to date. I haven't been able to do much without real training which will occur this weekend. I have put stickers on thousands and thousands of condoms. Today I was supposed to be promoted to syringe packager, but my "boss" was sick, took the day off, and called me nice and early to tell me not to come in either. Luckily there is another woman there for the summer who is pretty fabulous, which will make condom-stickering much more bearable.
Other than that I have been meandering around the city. Found myself at Fisherman's Wharf yesterday and have vowed to never return. The sea lions on Pier 39 were pretty cute tho. Saw a Chihuly exhibit. Probably would have been better had I been on LSD. If only I had been here forty years ago, I would have been in the perfect city to begin such experiments. I suppose if I look hard enough I could probably still find enough people willing/already partaking in such things. I don't think I'll be putting my time in those endeavors.
Sadly I still don't have a job.
My time at the SFAF has been uneventful up to date. I haven't been able to do much without real training which will occur this weekend. I have put stickers on thousands and thousands of condoms. Today I was supposed to be promoted to syringe packager, but my "boss" was sick, took the day off, and called me nice and early to tell me not to come in either. Luckily there is another woman there for the summer who is pretty fabulous, which will make condom-stickering much more bearable.
Other than that I have been meandering around the city. Found myself at Fisherman's Wharf yesterday and have vowed to never return. The sea lions on Pier 39 were pretty cute tho. Saw a Chihuly exhibit. Probably would have been better had I been on LSD. If only I had been here forty years ago, I would have been in the perfect city to begin such experiments. I suppose if I look hard enough I could probably still find enough people willing/already partaking in such things. I don't think I'll be putting my time in those endeavors.
Sadly I still don't have a job.
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Work and Play
First off...new baby alert! My newest niece was born yesterday, healthy and beautiful (although I somehow did not receive the pictures of her and would be greatly appreciative if someone that did forwarded them on to me). Yay for new additions to this already fabulous family.
The baseball game was fun, although SF lost. Devin provided amazing seats, including the secret entryway that only ticket holders had access to and was filled with top-notch food vendors. Fancy smanchy. They were field level, right behind home plate. As an added bonus, it stayed warm until 9 at night allowing me to indulge in some gelatto from the secret vendors. I am getting to be a bit spoiled, and am going to be in for a big shock when I leave for Kenya and find that my modern day conveniences are much harder to come by on a daily basis.
I had my orientation meeting at SFAF (San Francisco AIDS Foundation), and it looks like it is going to be a great summer. They can in fact give me 35-40 hours a week, which seemed a little doubtful a few weeks ago. I begin on Monday, and next weekend will be trained to work the California AIDS Hotline. Other than that I'll be doing work around the office, helping them get ready for the AIDS walk that occurs in July, and going to some needle exchange sites.
The area around the foundation is located where it is primarily to serve drug addicts, who the foundation strives to cater towards. The actual street it's on is fine, as it is one of the main streets of the city. If you take a wrong turn (as I did), well... it isn't very pretty to put it nicely. I had signed up to work at a soup kitchen in the area since I knew I wouldn't be at the SFAF for very long and figured I could use that as a reason to stay downtown and explore. I definitely got lost in the wrong neighborhood; a neighborhood that should probably be renamed Crack Central instead of The Tenderloin (as the Tenderloin is a lame name anyway). Luckily it was in the middle of the day so I wasn't in too much danger, but it was definitely an eye opening experience. So was working at the soup kitchen where they feed close to 1,000 people three times a day, every day. Definitely a lot grittier than what I have experienced before and what I expected. Living in New York City did not prepare me for these sites, as it is almost impossible to just wander into one of those neighborhoods like it is here in San Francisco. I'm expecting a bit of a hard time going to needle exchange sites, but at the same time think it will be a worthwhile experience, and is definitely a service this city needs.
I have figured out how to use public transportation. Biking to and from work is definitely not an option, as the neighborhood I would have to bike through is almost as sketchy as Crack Central. Luckily there is a bus station not too far from my house, as well as a metro line that will take me to wherever I need to go. The system is definitely not the greatest, especially from where I am which is a bit out of the central city, but will definitely work for the next two months. It is also luckily located in the better neighborhood and I feel much better walking around there during any time of the day. (My apartment is a little posh development, surrounded by a few not so posh neighborhoods. Most of the people in this complex can afford to drive their BMW's wherever their little hearts delight.)
I began my job search today, although it wasn't too terribly successful. Most people just smile at me and tell me that they are not hiring right now. I'm not sure if it was worse to constantly be reminded about how terrible the American economy is when I was constantly exchanging money in Europe, or to be reminded now when nobody is hiring and I am poor. I filled out an application, dropped off my resume at a few places, and left my number with a woman who seemed very interested in me but who knows. I can luckily afford to live off the money I have for quite some time, but I am hoping that I will be able to save a bit of money this summer. I will continue tomorrow in another neighborhood which would actually probably be more convenient for me, although not quite as fun as Haight where I was looking today.
Yay new baby, yay SFAF, yay potential new job!
The baseball game was fun, although SF lost. Devin provided amazing seats, including the secret entryway that only ticket holders had access to and was filled with top-notch food vendors. Fancy smanchy. They were field level, right behind home plate. As an added bonus, it stayed warm until 9 at night allowing me to indulge in some gelatto from the secret vendors. I am getting to be a bit spoiled, and am going to be in for a big shock when I leave for Kenya and find that my modern day conveniences are much harder to come by on a daily basis.
I had my orientation meeting at SFAF (San Francisco AIDS Foundation), and it looks like it is going to be a great summer. They can in fact give me 35-40 hours a week, which seemed a little doubtful a few weeks ago. I begin on Monday, and next weekend will be trained to work the California AIDS Hotline. Other than that I'll be doing work around the office, helping them get ready for the AIDS walk that occurs in July, and going to some needle exchange sites.
The area around the foundation is located where it is primarily to serve drug addicts, who the foundation strives to cater towards. The actual street it's on is fine, as it is one of the main streets of the city. If you take a wrong turn (as I did), well... it isn't very pretty to put it nicely. I had signed up to work at a soup kitchen in the area since I knew I wouldn't be at the SFAF for very long and figured I could use that as a reason to stay downtown and explore. I definitely got lost in the wrong neighborhood; a neighborhood that should probably be renamed Crack Central instead of The Tenderloin (as the Tenderloin is a lame name anyway). Luckily it was in the middle of the day so I wasn't in too much danger, but it was definitely an eye opening experience. So was working at the soup kitchen where they feed close to 1,000 people three times a day, every day. Definitely a lot grittier than what I have experienced before and what I expected. Living in New York City did not prepare me for these sites, as it is almost impossible to just wander into one of those neighborhoods like it is here in San Francisco. I'm expecting a bit of a hard time going to needle exchange sites, but at the same time think it will be a worthwhile experience, and is definitely a service this city needs.
I have figured out how to use public transportation. Biking to and from work is definitely not an option, as the neighborhood I would have to bike through is almost as sketchy as Crack Central. Luckily there is a bus station not too far from my house, as well as a metro line that will take me to wherever I need to go. The system is definitely not the greatest, especially from where I am which is a bit out of the central city, but will definitely work for the next two months. It is also luckily located in the better neighborhood and I feel much better walking around there during any time of the day. (My apartment is a little posh development, surrounded by a few not so posh neighborhoods. Most of the people in this complex can afford to drive their BMW's wherever their little hearts delight.)
I began my job search today, although it wasn't too terribly successful. Most people just smile at me and tell me that they are not hiring right now. I'm not sure if it was worse to constantly be reminded about how terrible the American economy is when I was constantly exchanging money in Europe, or to be reminded now when nobody is hiring and I am poor. I filled out an application, dropped off my resume at a few places, and left my number with a woman who seemed very interested in me but who knows. I can luckily afford to live off the money I have for quite some time, but I am hoping that I will be able to save a bit of money this summer. I will continue tomorrow in another neighborhood which would actually probably be more convenient for me, although not quite as fun as Haight where I was looking today.
Yay new baby, yay SFAF, yay potential new job!
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
And I Thought it was Summer
I don't think I am being too ridiculous in saying that hot chocolate should not be a best seller at a baseball game. Baseball games are played in the summer. You are supposed to sweat, wear shorts, and have to apply SPF 70 sunblock repeatedly during day games. You are NEVER supposed to order hot chocolate and sign up for a credit card in return for a free blanket.
And yet, that is what has happened to me. California was supposed to be warm, sunny, and beautiful. Well it is sunny and beautiful, but yesterday it was absolutely frigid to the point where vendors at the baseball game were shouting hot chocolate instead of beer.
The game was fun, as the Giants beat Detroit 8-6. I came home to find an invite to tonight's game from a friend that lives near Berkeley. This time I will at least be prepared with my beautiful fleece blanket. However, I will have to brave public transportation which is something I don't fully yet understand. I think I have at least some idea of where I am going, and lots and lots of quarters to pay for fare. Figuring out how the bike racks work on front of the buses...well that is another story.
Tomorrow I will be heading over to the AIDS Foundation to have an orientation meeting, and hopefully figure out what my schedule will be with them for the rest of the summer. Then I can begin figuring out the rest of my life, also known as finding a job.
And yet, that is what has happened to me. California was supposed to be warm, sunny, and beautiful. Well it is sunny and beautiful, but yesterday it was absolutely frigid to the point where vendors at the baseball game were shouting hot chocolate instead of beer.
The game was fun, as the Giants beat Detroit 8-6. I came home to find an invite to tonight's game from a friend that lives near Berkeley. This time I will at least be prepared with my beautiful fleece blanket. However, I will have to brave public transportation which is something I don't fully yet understand. I think I have at least some idea of where I am going, and lots and lots of quarters to pay for fare. Figuring out how the bike racks work on front of the buses...well that is another story.
Tomorrow I will be heading over to the AIDS Foundation to have an orientation meeting, and hopefully figure out what my schedule will be with them for the rest of the summer. Then I can begin figuring out the rest of my life, also known as finding a job.
Monday, June 16, 2008
I'm Going North to San Francisco
"I'm going north to San Francisco, into the cleaner air. I'm gonna get a little land with the money I've saved, and buy an old house that I can work on. Where the next nearest neighbor lives miles away, I'll never have to mow the lawn. Right on."
So Maybe the above song lyrics aren't exactly true anymore, but it looks like I'm going to like this city. The trip out was an experience. The Stephens were wonderful, although the kids are about twice as old and big as they should be, as that means I myself am getting old.
The Grand Canyon was magnificent, and getting Dad to hike down into it was interesting. He did it tho; made me proud. I think he almost had a heart attack several times as I was nearing the edge. That of course would not have been helped by the terrible diet we lived on for a week consisting of pop tarts and beer.
I attempted to ride my bike around. My bike was fifty dollars and has rusted out handle bars, and the gears tend to have a mind of their own. It will be an interesting summer, but I don't have much other choice as gas is over $4.50 in this silly city. I'll just be in magnificent shape at the end of it.
The apartment is great, although I've already been struck by plumbing problems. Hopefully they will all get solved before the Giants game tonight. Too bad they don't still play at Candlestick Park as it is literally behind my apartment. If only it were football season, I could walk to see the 49's play.
Here are some pictures from the trip out here. I'll post pictures of San Francisco/my lovely living quarters sometime in the near future.
So Maybe the above song lyrics aren't exactly true anymore, but it looks like I'm going to like this city. The trip out was an experience. The Stephens were wonderful, although the kids are about twice as old and big as they should be, as that means I myself am getting old.
The Grand Canyon was magnificent, and getting Dad to hike down into it was interesting. He did it tho; made me proud. I think he almost had a heart attack several times as I was nearing the edge. That of course would not have been helped by the terrible diet we lived on for a week consisting of pop tarts and beer.
I attempted to ride my bike around. My bike was fifty dollars and has rusted out handle bars, and the gears tend to have a mind of their own. It will be an interesting summer, but I don't have much other choice as gas is over $4.50 in this silly city. I'll just be in magnificent shape at the end of it.
The apartment is great, although I've already been struck by plumbing problems. Hopefully they will all get solved before the Giants game tonight. Too bad they don't still play at Candlestick Park as it is literally behind my apartment. If only it were football season, I could walk to see the 49's play.
Here are some pictures from the trip out here. I'll post pictures of San Francisco/my lovely living quarters sometime in the near future.
Friday, June 6, 2008
Fries, not Chips
For any that didn't know, I am back in the grand ole USofA. Just in time to see Hillary give up (beautiful) and gas prices to go up $10 a barrel in one day (obviously heinous). Now I am just readjusting to America- saying fries instead of chips, flushing my toilet paper, and realizing that produce costs in this country are completely out of control.
The UK was wonderful and included a trip to Lady Fest where a Brazilian-Nigerian-Indian woman tried to pass of Sojourner Truth's "I Am a Woman" speech as her own work. Brilliant. Also saw a lovely half Romanian, half Scottish band singing feminist gypsy songs and occasional jazz covers. Fabulous.
Side note: Today I was reading an article in the New York Times about Wetlands a German book, and all the hoopla it is creating about feminism and sex. It included that Germany has the third worst wage disparity between men and women in the European Union. Can anybody guess what was one of the countries that was worse? CYPRUS!!! Surprise!!! Maybe they need a Lady Fest there. I for sure will not be organizing it, as I will never step near that island again. I do really miss their strawberries unfortunately.
I was unable to find the guards with the fantastic hats. I looked everywhere, and they were just in hiding. The one thing I wanted to see in London, and they wouldn't come out for me. Other than that the trip was pretty typical of what you would expect- all of the touristy things in London and a ton of sheep in Scotland. Scotland also included a beautiful visit with Allison Sanders and constant effort at understanding their lovely accents.
Now I'm home. I've escaped from a mono scare where I thought I might have to reconsider San Francisco. Luckily I don't have it, or strep, or any illness in fact. I guess that's what I get for skipping sleep for a week straight. I leave for San Francisco on Monday. Get there on the 15th and start to enjoy my life of luxury in my apartment on the bay with private gym and doorman. Of course that this means that my room is probably the size of my current closet, and that I will get kicked out at the end of July rendering me homeless for my remaining month. Oh what fun.
I will probably post a few times this summer, but probably not as frequently as I have (not that I have really posted that frequently on this blog). Hopefully I will be busy volunteering and working, and I doubt that you will want to know the intricate details of waitressing. Or maybe those details would provide the basis for the book I am one day going to write to clear my debts. Who knows?
Love you all.
The UK was wonderful and included a trip to Lady Fest where a Brazilian-Nigerian-Indian woman tried to pass of Sojourner Truth's "I Am a Woman" speech as her own work. Brilliant. Also saw a lovely half Romanian, half Scottish band singing feminist gypsy songs and occasional jazz covers. Fabulous.
Side note: Today I was reading an article in the New York Times about Wetlands a German book, and all the hoopla it is creating about feminism and sex. It included that Germany has the third worst wage disparity between men and women in the European Union. Can anybody guess what was one of the countries that was worse? CYPRUS!!! Surprise!!! Maybe they need a Lady Fest there. I for sure will not be organizing it, as I will never step near that island again. I do really miss their strawberries unfortunately.
I was unable to find the guards with the fantastic hats. I looked everywhere, and they were just in hiding. The one thing I wanted to see in London, and they wouldn't come out for me. Other than that the trip was pretty typical of what you would expect- all of the touristy things in London and a ton of sheep in Scotland. Scotland also included a beautiful visit with Allison Sanders and constant effort at understanding their lovely accents.
Now I'm home. I've escaped from a mono scare where I thought I might have to reconsider San Francisco. Luckily I don't have it, or strep, or any illness in fact. I guess that's what I get for skipping sleep for a week straight. I leave for San Francisco on Monday. Get there on the 15th and start to enjoy my life of luxury in my apartment on the bay with private gym and doorman. Of course that this means that my room is probably the size of my current closet, and that I will get kicked out at the end of July rendering me homeless for my remaining month. Oh what fun.
I will probably post a few times this summer, but probably not as frequently as I have (not that I have really posted that frequently on this blog). Hopefully I will be busy volunteering and working, and I doubt that you will want to know the intricate details of waitressing. Or maybe those details would provide the basis for the book I am one day going to write to clear my debts. Who knows?
Love you all.
Monday, May 19, 2008
New Life Plans
Well Cyprus has left me with nothing to do my last week here. It is sweltering hot, there is nowhere pretty to sit outside, and I can't walk anywhere remotely pretty because I will die of heat stroke. Even if I were to make it back to the house, I wouldn't be able to shower anyway and would then sit in frustration of being hot, disgusting, and bored.
So of course that has left me to reading books and watching copious amounts of Sex and the City, which in turn has made me realized that I must immediately change all of my future plans.
At first I thought I should just become the next Carrie Bradshaw. Then I realized I am not a size zero, I do not have a shoe fetish, and if I ever became a sex columnist I might send my mother to an early grave. Or just be kicked out of the Ryan family. Neither are things that really appeal to me at the moment.
Reading The Confessions of an Economic Hit Man by John Perkins has just led me to believe that I am probably partaking in some huge conspiracy set up to extort millions of dollars from every person I meet (although at this point I wouldn't mind cheating Cypriots out of all their money and putting it my bank account. They shouldn't be allowed to drive their expensive cars and wear their expensive clothes before figuring out how to let me do my laundry whenever I need to do laundry).
So I am back again to believing that I should just drop out of college and become a baker. Then at least I can feed the poor with my confectionery delights, and then have lots of free time to campaign for human rights and hand out free condoms next the crazy evangelists on 42nd St (not because I think that handing out a handful of condoms to every passerby is an effective method, but just because I would thoroughly enjoy prancing around the preacher man that promises God is smiting all the smokers and homosexuals). Or I could just go back to my fourth grade plan: taking over Fiji and spreading communism throughout the world. I'm pretty sure I didn't fully understand what communism was at the time, but I'm starting to like the idea more and more every day. Benevolent Emperoress Maggie of the World- I like it.
Or maybe I just need to get off this island, return to normal civilization, and stop having to develop plans of world domination just so that I have something to update this blog with.
So of course that has left me to reading books and watching copious amounts of Sex and the City, which in turn has made me realized that I must immediately change all of my future plans.
At first I thought I should just become the next Carrie Bradshaw. Then I realized I am not a size zero, I do not have a shoe fetish, and if I ever became a sex columnist I might send my mother to an early grave. Or just be kicked out of the Ryan family. Neither are things that really appeal to me at the moment.
Reading The Confessions of an Economic Hit Man by John Perkins has just led me to believe that I am probably partaking in some huge conspiracy set up to extort millions of dollars from every person I meet (although at this point I wouldn't mind cheating Cypriots out of all their money and putting it my bank account. They shouldn't be allowed to drive their expensive cars and wear their expensive clothes before figuring out how to let me do my laundry whenever I need to do laundry).
So I am back again to believing that I should just drop out of college and become a baker. Then at least I can feed the poor with my confectionery delights, and then have lots of free time to campaign for human rights and hand out free condoms next the crazy evangelists on 42nd St (not because I think that handing out a handful of condoms to every passerby is an effective method, but just because I would thoroughly enjoy prancing around the preacher man that promises God is smiting all the smokers and homosexuals). Or I could just go back to my fourth grade plan: taking over Fiji and spreading communism throughout the world. I'm pretty sure I didn't fully understand what communism was at the time, but I'm starting to like the idea more and more every day. Benevolent Emperoress Maggie of the World- I like it.
Or maybe I just need to get off this island, return to normal civilization, and stop having to develop plans of world domination just so that I have something to update this blog with.
Monday, May 12, 2008
You are Mostly Welcome
Translation mishaps are fabulous when traveling. For instance, Jessica and I rented a car for our trip through Jordan and when we thanked the car rental guy for his assistance he replied "You are mostly welcome". Later on at one of our hostels a sign read "Not responsible for any lost". This was right after swim at your own risk and no children under 15 allowed without parents.
Occasionally it's not so great. When you are in the middle of nowhere, in the mountains, you haven't seen a gas station in over an hour, and you are no on the dreaded "E", the last thing you want to come across is the security check point officer that speaks no English except a very vivacious "Welcome to Jordan" and can not answer any of your frantic questions about where to find gas.
Another thing to do when traveling and not being amused by grammatical inaccuracies and panicked by your current gas emergency is Brit Spotting. This can take place anywhere. Qualifications include: usually late middle aged to older couples, come off large tour group buses and travel in wild packs, the women usually wear white pants or short, floppy hats that are atrocious, and are sporting a sun burn on their arms and chests that is just downright repulsive. The men usually wear khaki shorts, a button down shirt that is untucked and usually the bottom buttons are left undone, sandals with knee length athletic socks, and a hat that makes them feel like Indiana Jones. When you feel like you've mastered it, you can being wagering bets with your travel companion. If you find out that they aren't British, then it just more of a reason to mock them as they have lost all excuse for their terrible terrible fashion mishaps.
Of course when you are asked if you are British you are utterly embarrassed and realize you must run to the nearest dressing room as soon as possible.
My trip to Jordan was absolutely fantastic. The best trip I have had this semester. No pictures or words could even begin to describe how beautiful it is. The people are wonderful, and it has been the first time this semester I haven't been hesitant about admitting I am from America. Usually that is followed by "Oh...Bush. We don't like him." and then a tirade of offenses he has made. In Jordan it was the magic phrase. Get pulled over for speeding? Say that you are American and roam free. Get lost in Amman? Say that you are American and have 100 people try and help you. The welcomes are endless, and usually include hand waving and large smiles, and an occasional crazy hug that you don't quite know what to do with.
Now just ten more days in Cyprus, one more week of traveling, and then I'm coming back to the US. No more changing currency and crying that I just lost half my money because the USD is worth noting, no more buying ridiculously overpriced goods because you live on Cyprus, and no more being able to drink legally.
Enjoy the pictures. Put them into several albums as I took a whole lot. Love you all.
Day One: "Let's Float to Israel"
Day Two: "Cypriot Tour Guides"
Day Three: "Looking for the Holy Grail"
Day Four: "Bedouins and Beaches"
Occasionally it's not so great. When you are in the middle of nowhere, in the mountains, you haven't seen a gas station in over an hour, and you are no on the dreaded "E", the last thing you want to come across is the security check point officer that speaks no English except a very vivacious "Welcome to Jordan" and can not answer any of your frantic questions about where to find gas.
Another thing to do when traveling and not being amused by grammatical inaccuracies and panicked by your current gas emergency is Brit Spotting. This can take place anywhere. Qualifications include: usually late middle aged to older couples, come off large tour group buses and travel in wild packs, the women usually wear white pants or short, floppy hats that are atrocious, and are sporting a sun burn on their arms and chests that is just downright repulsive. The men usually wear khaki shorts, a button down shirt that is untucked and usually the bottom buttons are left undone, sandals with knee length athletic socks, and a hat that makes them feel like Indiana Jones. When you feel like you've mastered it, you can being wagering bets with your travel companion. If you find out that they aren't British, then it just more of a reason to mock them as they have lost all excuse for their terrible terrible fashion mishaps.
Of course when you are asked if you are British you are utterly embarrassed and realize you must run to the nearest dressing room as soon as possible.
My trip to Jordan was absolutely fantastic. The best trip I have had this semester. No pictures or words could even begin to describe how beautiful it is. The people are wonderful, and it has been the first time this semester I haven't been hesitant about admitting I am from America. Usually that is followed by "Oh...Bush. We don't like him." and then a tirade of offenses he has made. In Jordan it was the magic phrase. Get pulled over for speeding? Say that you are American and roam free. Get lost in Amman? Say that you are American and have 100 people try and help you. The welcomes are endless, and usually include hand waving and large smiles, and an occasional crazy hug that you don't quite know what to do with.
Now just ten more days in Cyprus, one more week of traveling, and then I'm coming back to the US. No more changing currency and crying that I just lost half my money because the USD is worth noting, no more buying ridiculously overpriced goods because you live on Cyprus, and no more being able to drink legally.
Enjoy the pictures. Put them into several albums as I took a whole lot. Love you all.
Day One: "Let's Float to Israel"
Day Two: "Cypriot Tour Guides"
Day Three: "Looking for the Holy Grail"
Day Four: "Bedouins and Beaches"
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Cyprus Really Really Hates Me
I am in Cyprus for about one minute. After arriving in Cyprus at 3 in the morning I learned that my luggage has been lost. Not left in Vienna, but in airplane limbo with my sunblock, deodorant, toothbrush...basically my life essentials. Of course they lose it when I need it to repack for another trip I am embarking on tonight. Oye vey. Cyprus just wants me to be a dirty, disgusting, grimy individual and is probably just hiding my luggage in a back room just to spite me. It's that type of island....and I am just narcissistic enough to believe that an entire nation would plan its everyday mundane events around me.
The rest of Austria was wonderful, although exhausting. I have never thought that my day was complete so many times at once, only to have my hopes dashed with the prospect of climbing yet another mountain. Although I was always rewarded with fabulous ice cream at the end of the day, which always makes everything worth anything.
In a few hours I will be leaving for Jordan!!! This is probably the trip I am most excited about...hopefully everything will go according to plan and Cyprus won't rob me of my remaining underwear.
Here are two albums from my trip. I may have taken an over abundance of waterfall pictures, but they were pretty, so enjoy! Don't mock my silly outfits I modeled throughout the trip as my jeans with holes in them have left me with few clothes that are wearable. My recent loss of luggage should make Jordan even more fashionable!
Love you all!
Berlin:
Adventures in Mountain Climbing:
The rest of Austria was wonderful, although exhausting. I have never thought that my day was complete so many times at once, only to have my hopes dashed with the prospect of climbing yet another mountain. Although I was always rewarded with fabulous ice cream at the end of the day, which always makes everything worth anything.
In a few hours I will be leaving for Jordan!!! This is probably the trip I am most excited about...hopefully everything will go according to plan and Cyprus won't rob me of my remaining underwear.
Here are two albums from my trip. I may have taken an over abundance of waterfall pictures, but they were pretty, so enjoy! Don't mock my silly outfits I modeled throughout the trip as my jeans with holes in them have left me with few clothes that are wearable. My recent loss of luggage should make Jordan even more fashionable!
Love you all!
Berlin:
Adventures in Mountain Climbing:
Sunday, May 4, 2008
If I Climb a Wall in Berlin Does it Still Count if It's not THE Wall?
Berlin has come and gone. It was a nice city, but I'm pretty sure that I would have to move there to fully appreciate the city. I don't think I met any Germans but I did hang out with some Irish, a bunch of Aussies, and an American who refuses to ever work and instead slaves away playing music and using a fancy vocabulary to try and impress everybody else (which of course just annoyed me...there are just so many times you can use mellifluous in one day). It probably would have been a lot better if I had been with a friend in the city. Definitely an interesting place though with history basically every step you take. I had to avoid the streets the last day I was there because it is a huge day of rioting and setting cars on fire. Fun!
The highlight was probably the night we decided to have an adventure through the abandoned amusement park on the outskirts of Berlin. Unfortunately it ended up with us hiding out in tea pots and frantically jumping over a fence to avoid being caught by the Berlin police. We figured it must not be that bad since one of the tour companies in Berlin takes their tour groups to this same place. Again I met more foreigners when we ran into six Finnish girls who had also decided to try and play on the giant dinosaurs. Luckily we evaded the authorities and I managed to leave Germany without spending a night in jail.
Now I find myself in Austria with my friend Katie, a Russian girl named Elena, and our host Robert who is insane. His wife is coming home tonight and I am scared to meet her as I don't think I could manage to live with two people that have that much energy. We have hiked up several mountains, had picnics all over the place, went rock climbing, and did various other sporting activities. The man never ever slows down and it is exhausting just to be near him. I'm also having serious allergy issues and I think if I go near another tree, meadow, or basically anything in nature my nose and lungs will stop working. It is absolutely beautiful here and I find myself wondering why I am returning to America when I should instead just open up a pastry shop in Austria and live with the Alps as my house's backdrop.
I'll be back in Cyprus for about twelve hours, and then on to Jordan! Love you all!
The highlight was probably the night we decided to have an adventure through the abandoned amusement park on the outskirts of Berlin. Unfortunately it ended up with us hiding out in tea pots and frantically jumping over a fence to avoid being caught by the Berlin police. We figured it must not be that bad since one of the tour companies in Berlin takes their tour groups to this same place. Again I met more foreigners when we ran into six Finnish girls who had also decided to try and play on the giant dinosaurs. Luckily we evaded the authorities and I managed to leave Germany without spending a night in jail.
Now I find myself in Austria with my friend Katie, a Russian girl named Elena, and our host Robert who is insane. His wife is coming home tonight and I am scared to meet her as I don't think I could manage to live with two people that have that much energy. We have hiked up several mountains, had picnics all over the place, went rock climbing, and did various other sporting activities. The man never ever slows down and it is exhausting just to be near him. I'm also having serious allergy issues and I think if I go near another tree, meadow, or basically anything in nature my nose and lungs will stop working. It is absolutely beautiful here and I find myself wondering why I am returning to America when I should instead just open up a pastry shop in Austria and live with the Alps as my house's backdrop.
I'll be back in Cyprus for about twelve hours, and then on to Jordan! Love you all!
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Mozart Lives
So Prague was a snowglobe city where everybody is happy, and everything is beyond beautiful. You just need to shake it up and you get a beautiful snowstorm on the Charles Bridge.
Istanbul reminded me of the city replica set ups you find in amusement parks like Six Flags- complete with ice cream windows run by men wearing shiny red and gold vests and funny hats that come straight out of Aladdin. And then of course there are the men selling light up devil horn headbands on Friday nights.
And then there is Vienna which I am realizing reminds me more and more of a Space Balls scene. The first time I visited I thought there obsession with Mozart was a little over the top. It seems to come from the Space Balls scene where Yogurt pulls out the Space Balls Merchandising store. Vienna just instead has Mozart the Magnet, Mozart the flag, Mozart the shot glass....you think of it- Mozart is on it. Yesterday I arrived just in time to witness the Vienna City Marathon soundtracked by none other than Mozart himself. I don't know about you, but personally I don`t turn to the classics as my pump up jams of choice but oh well. I hope it worked for the man that was dumb enough to run 26 miles wearing a full bear costume. It would all fit so well into a Mel Brooks musical.
Now I am in Germany trying to find ways to occupy my time before I go to my hosts`house since I arrived hear at 5:30 in the morning and then proceeded to get lost several times. Also have to complete my hunt for bread and peanut butter as living off of sausages for the next week is nothing but a terrible terrible idea. I'm not sure that living off of peanut butter is really a lot healthier but at least it will be cheaper.
Love you all!
Istanbul reminded me of the city replica set ups you find in amusement parks like Six Flags- complete with ice cream windows run by men wearing shiny red and gold vests and funny hats that come straight out of Aladdin. And then of course there are the men selling light up devil horn headbands on Friday nights.
And then there is Vienna which I am realizing reminds me more and more of a Space Balls scene. The first time I visited I thought there obsession with Mozart was a little over the top. It seems to come from the Space Balls scene where Yogurt pulls out the Space Balls Merchandising store. Vienna just instead has Mozart the Magnet, Mozart the flag, Mozart the shot glass....you think of it- Mozart is on it. Yesterday I arrived just in time to witness the Vienna City Marathon soundtracked by none other than Mozart himself. I don't know about you, but personally I don`t turn to the classics as my pump up jams of choice but oh well. I hope it worked for the man that was dumb enough to run 26 miles wearing a full bear costume. It would all fit so well into a Mel Brooks musical.
Now I am in Germany trying to find ways to occupy my time before I go to my hosts`house since I arrived hear at 5:30 in the morning and then proceeded to get lost several times. Also have to complete my hunt for bread and peanut butter as living off of sausages for the next week is nothing but a terrible terrible idea. I'm not sure that living off of peanut butter is really a lot healthier but at least it will be cheaper.
Love you all!
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Hibernation Anyone?
Istanbul allowed me to settle down for the last five days of my trip. It was a beautiful trip, and once I rid my life of the crazy Norwegians, the trip was filled with beautiful people.
Ebru, my first host, and I hung out a lot. We went to dinner every night, went to a Turkish night club which was possibly the greatest thing with everyone dancing a combination of swing/salsa/belly dancing and singing their hearts out. We smoked hookah under a bridge on the Bosphorus and she taught me how to play backgammon while I was surrounded by locals in the town square all meeting after a day at work. She introduced me to her cousin who is an artist and has paintings in museums all over the world and took me to the Istanbul film festival where I saw truly horrid acting by Penelope Cruz. Or maybe I just really dislike Penelope Cruz and that just took over my judgement. On my last day there we met up again and went to the Museum of Modern Art and ate deserts in the Egyptian Bizarre.
My other host Esra was also absolutely wonderful. She lives in the suburbs of Istanbul with her sister and parents, and the whole family was just amazing. I think I gained 10 pounds in the time I stayed with her, as they just kept piling food on my plate. My first lunch I thought was just going to be soup and some small side dishes, but then chicken, potatoes, salad, and yogurt, and many other things were all piled on my plate. It was like thanksgiving dinner. Then they decided we should go for a picnic by the Bosphorus with Turkish snacks, and then the fed me more food once we got home, and then they took me out for dinner which was enough food for the Turkish army. I woke up the next morning still full, but was still served a huge breakfast. It amazed me that the girls were still so skinny...I don't understand. I think that if I were a bear I would have been ready to hibernate for several years after the feasts that I partook in.
Turkey even has there own type of ice cream. I can't decide if I liked it or not. They also had an abundant supply of regular ice cream. Even McDonald's and Burger King had ice cream windows instead of the usual take out windows. Beautiful.
Cyprus let me back into the country, and hopefully will let me leave it tonight when I leave for Berlin and Vienna. I will be in Berlin by myself again, but will be meeting up with my friend Katie for Vienna. It has been wonderful getting to travel by myself but I think I will be ready for some company by the end of the week.
Enjoy the pictures
Love you all.
Ebru, my first host, and I hung out a lot. We went to dinner every night, went to a Turkish night club which was possibly the greatest thing with everyone dancing a combination of swing/salsa/belly dancing and singing their hearts out. We smoked hookah under a bridge on the Bosphorus and she taught me how to play backgammon while I was surrounded by locals in the town square all meeting after a day at work. She introduced me to her cousin who is an artist and has paintings in museums all over the world and took me to the Istanbul film festival where I saw truly horrid acting by Penelope Cruz. Or maybe I just really dislike Penelope Cruz and that just took over my judgement. On my last day there we met up again and went to the Museum of Modern Art and ate deserts in the Egyptian Bizarre.
My other host Esra was also absolutely wonderful. She lives in the suburbs of Istanbul with her sister and parents, and the whole family was just amazing. I think I gained 10 pounds in the time I stayed with her, as they just kept piling food on my plate. My first lunch I thought was just going to be soup and some small side dishes, but then chicken, potatoes, salad, and yogurt, and many other things were all piled on my plate. It was like thanksgiving dinner. Then they decided we should go for a picnic by the Bosphorus with Turkish snacks, and then the fed me more food once we got home, and then they took me out for dinner which was enough food for the Turkish army. I woke up the next morning still full, but was still served a huge breakfast. It amazed me that the girls were still so skinny...I don't understand. I think that if I were a bear I would have been ready to hibernate for several years after the feasts that I partook in.
Turkey even has there own type of ice cream. I can't decide if I liked it or not. They also had an abundant supply of regular ice cream. Even McDonald's and Burger King had ice cream windows instead of the usual take out windows. Beautiful.
Cyprus let me back into the country, and hopefully will let me leave it tonight when I leave for Berlin and Vienna. I will be in Berlin by myself again, but will be meeting up with my friend Katie for Vienna. It has been wonderful getting to travel by myself but I think I will be ready for some company by the end of the week.
Enjoy the pictures
Love you all.
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Istanbul not Constantınople-Why They Changed ıt I Can't Say
Forget Indiana Jones...you should probably just come on an adventure wıth me because I clearly know how to fınd myself in the most bizarre situations wıth the strangest of strange characters.
Currently I find myself in an internet cafe in Istanbul. How I managed to arrive here alive...I havent quıte fıgured that one out yet.
I arrived at the airport in Cyprus looked at my ticket and realized I was landing at a different airport than expected. I asked how far away it was from Istanbul and the first answer I got was "Three hours. About 50 km." So I was a bıt panicked as I wasn't arrıvıng until late at night and had no place to stay or no idea how to get where I wanted to be. But then I thought about ıt some more and realized that 50 km would never ever take three hours to travel. After about another 20 minutes of dıscussing it with the man and several other people I learned ıt was simply on the Asian sıde of Istanbul and there was a bus that would go to the European side.
But then of course my plane was delayed and I realızed that the metro was going to close down. I had resigned myself to staying the nıght ın the airport and trying to figure ıt all out ın the mornıng. I was waiting for a visa when 2 Norwegians and a Turkish man came up to me and asked if I was goıng to the European side. I saıd yes and John (the Turk) offered to help me fınd my way there. We all got through customs and then he looked at the address and told me I probably couldn't get to the hostel at nıght because the metro was closed but that he was takıng the Norweıgans to his mothers house and I was welcome to come to. I accepted the offer thinking that ıf things were really bad on the bus I could just hop off at a stop that had a hotel wıthın walkıng dıstance and spend the nıght there. As soon as we left the airport I realızed that the Norwenglish I thought the man was speakıng was actually just really really slurred English because he was drunk. The lady then told me that her and her husband were recoverıng drug addıcts. At this point I had decided that they were just going to kidnap me and sell me to a brothel so that they could go buy crack. I got on the bus anyway.
I talked to John and he seemed normal enough and kept talkıng to hıs mother so decided I keep on with the journey. We got off the bus and were walkıng and I became posıtıve a polıce offıcer was goıng to stop them, fınd drugs on all of them, and I would be arrested and spend my week ın a Turkish jail (which ıncidentıally are apparently not very nıce accordıng to the research I did for a paper about Turkey the nıght before). But that didnt happen and I made ıt to hıs family's house and had food and went to bed.
Hıs mother is the greatest thing ever, doesn't speak any Englısh, and doesn't remember my name so just calls me Amerıcano.
Yesterday was spent goıng from doctor to doctor wıth the crazy Norweıgan lady because she has an eye ınfectıon from usıng drugs. I had no ıdea where I was so I couldnt really wonder off by myself. The Turkısh mother wasn't goıng to let me, even ıf I had wanted to. Finally we made ıt to a central sqare but then we needed to stop at a bar to get a drınk for the Norweıgan man, because he has become an alcoholıc sınce gıvıng up drugs. I somehow ended up havıng to buy all of theır drınks, and realızed I could not take the crazy Norweıgans any longer and had to fınd a new place to stay. I also got to watch a lot of Turkısh musıc vıdeos and read a Nıcholas Sparks novel...fabulous.
Whıch I did thıs mornıng. Unfortunately I was supposed to get to her house at 12:30. I thınk I made John mad by not stayıng wıth hıs family longer, and he refused to leave the house at the rıght tıme, and wasn't really talkıng to me at all. Oops. Fınally I made ıt to a bus, and then a nıce Turkısh woman helped me fınd my way to the stop. On the way I also met a Brıtısh couple and they were so excıted to get to talk to someone ın Englısh that the lady told me all about how she ıs gettıng an ın vıtro treatment here ın Turkey. Amazıng what strangers wıll talk to you about.
I fınally made ıt to my new host's house but was an hour late and she had already left. Of course my Cyprıot phone doesn't work ın Turkey and pay phones don't take coıns. At thıs poınt I just want Amerıca, so of course I dıd the only thıng I could thınk of.
Fınd McDonald's and eat ıce cream.
After that I was ready to take on Istanbul agaın. I stıll can't get ın touch wıth the gırl but I'm sure that I wıll at somepoınt. At least I know where I can go get more ıce cream...really nothıng else matters.
Maybe at some poınt I'll see all of the thıngs tourısts normally see ın thıs cıty. Hopefully sans crazy cracked out Norweıgans.
Love you all.
Currently I find myself in an internet cafe in Istanbul. How I managed to arrive here alive...I havent quıte fıgured that one out yet.
I arrived at the airport in Cyprus looked at my ticket and realized I was landing at a different airport than expected. I asked how far away it was from Istanbul and the first answer I got was "Three hours. About 50 km." So I was a bıt panicked as I wasn't arrıvıng until late at night and had no place to stay or no idea how to get where I wanted to be. But then I thought about ıt some more and realized that 50 km would never ever take three hours to travel. After about another 20 minutes of dıscussing it with the man and several other people I learned ıt was simply on the Asian sıde of Istanbul and there was a bus that would go to the European side.
But then of course my plane was delayed and I realızed that the metro was going to close down. I had resigned myself to staying the nıght ın the airport and trying to figure ıt all out ın the mornıng. I was waiting for a visa when 2 Norwegians and a Turkish man came up to me and asked if I was goıng to the European side. I saıd yes and John (the Turk) offered to help me fınd my way there. We all got through customs and then he looked at the address and told me I probably couldn't get to the hostel at nıght because the metro was closed but that he was takıng the Norweıgans to his mothers house and I was welcome to come to. I accepted the offer thinking that ıf things were really bad on the bus I could just hop off at a stop that had a hotel wıthın walkıng dıstance and spend the nıght there. As soon as we left the airport I realızed that the Norwenglish I thought the man was speakıng was actually just really really slurred English because he was drunk. The lady then told me that her and her husband were recoverıng drug addıcts. At this point I had decided that they were just going to kidnap me and sell me to a brothel so that they could go buy crack. I got on the bus anyway.
I talked to John and he seemed normal enough and kept talkıng to hıs mother so decided I keep on with the journey. We got off the bus and were walkıng and I became posıtıve a polıce offıcer was goıng to stop them, fınd drugs on all of them, and I would be arrested and spend my week ın a Turkish jail (which ıncidentıally are apparently not very nıce accordıng to the research I did for a paper about Turkey the nıght before). But that didnt happen and I made ıt to hıs family's house and had food and went to bed.
Hıs mother is the greatest thing ever, doesn't speak any Englısh, and doesn't remember my name so just calls me Amerıcano.
Yesterday was spent goıng from doctor to doctor wıth the crazy Norweıgan lady because she has an eye ınfectıon from usıng drugs. I had no ıdea where I was so I couldnt really wonder off by myself. The Turkısh mother wasn't goıng to let me, even ıf I had wanted to. Finally we made ıt to a central sqare but then we needed to stop at a bar to get a drınk for the Norweıgan man, because he has become an alcoholıc sınce gıvıng up drugs. I somehow ended up havıng to buy all of theır drınks, and realızed I could not take the crazy Norweıgans any longer and had to fınd a new place to stay. I also got to watch a lot of Turkısh musıc vıdeos and read a Nıcholas Sparks novel...fabulous.
Whıch I did thıs mornıng. Unfortunately I was supposed to get to her house at 12:30. I thınk I made John mad by not stayıng wıth hıs family longer, and he refused to leave the house at the rıght tıme, and wasn't really talkıng to me at all. Oops. Fınally I made ıt to a bus, and then a nıce Turkısh woman helped me fınd my way to the stop. On the way I also met a Brıtısh couple and they were so excıted to get to talk to someone ın Englısh that the lady told me all about how she ıs gettıng an ın vıtro treatment here ın Turkey. Amazıng what strangers wıll talk to you about.
I fınally made ıt to my new host's house but was an hour late and she had already left. Of course my Cyprıot phone doesn't work ın Turkey and pay phones don't take coıns. At thıs poınt I just want Amerıca, so of course I dıd the only thıng I could thınk of.
Fınd McDonald's and eat ıce cream.
After that I was ready to take on Istanbul agaın. I stıll can't get ın touch wıth the gırl but I'm sure that I wıll at somepoınt. At least I know where I can go get more ıce cream...really nothıng else matters.
Maybe at some poınt I'll see all of the thıngs tourısts normally see ın thıs cıty. Hopefully sans crazy cracked out Norweıgans.
Love you all.
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
No More Philo Dough for Me
It's a sad day in my life. I am being forced to give up philo dough and Zorba's, the twenty-four hour a day bakery that is only a few hundred feet from my front door. My friend has actually made a bet against me that I won't be able to go for the next month without visiting. If I win, I get Zorba's for free on May 13. Beautiful. Zorba's is the cheapest place around, filled with pastries, and bizarre sandwiches consisting of meat encrusted in beautiful, flaky dough, and pies that are the most delicious things in the world.
Why must I sacrifice the philo? Well, I seem to be unable to control my ticket buying sprees. Since arriving back in Cyprus I have arranged for a week in London and Scotland at the end of May, one week in Istanbul, four days in Berlin, five days in Vienna, and another five days in Jordan. Jordan put me over the edge, in philo dough denial. I'm pretty sure it's worth it though. I mean, rice and beans for two months isn't that terrible.
Other than that nothing else is new in my life. The water is still not running, so our shower schedules are terrible. My dreads have disappeared, as has half of the hair on my head. Fortunately I had massive massive amounts of hair to begin with, so I am still left with massive amounts. My plans for San Francisco seem to be working out, and I found an amazing apartment that is within biking distance from where I will be volunteering all summer.
That is all. I'm sure next weeks updates will be much more fascinating as I will be adventuring through Tukey.
Love you all.
Why must I sacrifice the philo? Well, I seem to be unable to control my ticket buying sprees. Since arriving back in Cyprus I have arranged for a week in London and Scotland at the end of May, one week in Istanbul, four days in Berlin, five days in Vienna, and another five days in Jordan. Jordan put me over the edge, in philo dough denial. I'm pretty sure it's worth it though. I mean, rice and beans for two months isn't that terrible.
Other than that nothing else is new in my life. The water is still not running, so our shower schedules are terrible. My dreads have disappeared, as has half of the hair on my head. Fortunately I had massive massive amounts of hair to begin with, so I am still left with massive amounts. My plans for San Francisco seem to be working out, and I found an amazing apartment that is within biking distance from where I will be volunteering all summer.
That is all. I'm sure next weeks updates will be much more fascinating as I will be adventuring through Tukey.
Love you all.
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Oh How I Wish I could Shower...but Alas, I live in Cyprus
Yay for returning to Cyprus...and a water shortage. There are few things worse than traveling for eleven and a half days, only taking two showers during that time period, and then returning home to find out that you now only have running water Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays between 6pm and 6am. Damn you Cyprus.
The rest of the trip was wonderful. I seriously contemplated staying in Vienna, but I forced myself into returning. And now I am just dirty and thirsty, and craving Viennese ice cream which was scrumptious beyond belief. I therefore forced myself to eat copious amounts of it both days I was there. I made up for it by renting the city bikes, and biking around Vienna instead of actually sight seeing. I also lay around in some more parks, and it was beautiful. I am thinking about returning in a few weeks when it is Easter vacation. I may return to America corpulent from my terrible eating habits there, but I think it is completely worth it.
Here is my photo collection. I may have included a few too many, but oh well. It was beautiful, and I am a firm believe in giving each of you as many opportunities as possible to live vicariously through me. Enjoy and be thankful that you can take as many showers as you want.
Love you all.
The rest of the trip was wonderful. I seriously contemplated staying in Vienna, but I forced myself into returning. And now I am just dirty and thirsty, and craving Viennese ice cream which was scrumptious beyond belief. I therefore forced myself to eat copious amounts of it both days I was there. I made up for it by renting the city bikes, and biking around Vienna instead of actually sight seeing. I also lay around in some more parks, and it was beautiful. I am thinking about returning in a few weeks when it is Easter vacation. I may return to America corpulent from my terrible eating habits there, but I think it is completely worth it.
Here is my photo collection. I may have included a few too many, but oh well. It was beautiful, and I am a firm believe in giving each of you as many opportunities as possible to live vicariously through me. Enjoy and be thankful that you can take as many showers as you want.
Love you all.
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