Thursday, September 18, 2008

Interesting Cultural Tidbit

If asking men and women if they are married, the word is different. For men, the verb is active and for women it is in the passive form. Men marry a woman, while a woman gets married to a man. Subtle, but begins to show just a bit of the gender inequality over here.

Boo.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Interesting Times

I've been sucked into the America of Kenya..otherwise known as Java. I'm trying to console myself with selling with the fact that I am giving up electricity and all other modern day conveniences for two weeks while I go to the coast (and perhaps learn to spear fish). Too bad I'm coming to the realization that as a woman, a rural village that still spear fishes may not be too welcoming of having a woman learn the trade.

In other news...being in Kenya at this particular time has been pretty fascinating. In case anybody needs a quick catch up: elections last year went terribly, there was a lot of violence in the beginning of the year, and now there is a power sharing agreement in place. President Kibaki is a Kikuyu and most people agree that he lost the election. Prime Minister Odinga is a Luo and now the Prime Minister, but most people believe he won the election.

Interesting for many reasons: Everywhere you go people have something bad to say about the government. Except for my house, in my very privileged Kikuyu household, which thinks that everything is peachy. Probably because Kikuyu's get every government job/ every job available; might be some good cause for a little bit of hostility in the rest of the country.

More interesting because of the ties to FGM (as the west calls it) or female circumcision (as we are told we better call it here). Not that I would ever be a proponent for female circumcision for many many reasons, but being here and talking about in a non-western mindset certainly makes the issue a lot more meaningful and deeper than any class full of middle class white kids could really understand. It also all ties back to the political parties, and a large part of why Kenyatta (a Kikuyu) became the first president instead of Odinga (the current Prime Minister's father and Luo) because the Kikuyu's rounded up all the tribes that practiced circumcision and pitted them against the tribes that don't practice circumcision which just happens to be the Luos and two other small tribes with littler power at all. Luos have been discriminated against and are considered "children" as circumcision rites usually signify the transition from childhood to adulthood.

So last year, when Odinga was almost elected President it would have been monumental as it would have meant a Luo in power, and the possible decline of tribal tensions since Kikuyu groups would not have been able to completely control all agencies.

That is a hugely simplified and generalized explanation of some huge issues that are going on here, but it has definitely been interesting to hear and see people's obvious and resentment towards the current political situation. The newspapers are already filled with talk of the 2012 elections.

The newspapers are also filled with Obama. So much so that when I start reading American news, I am shocked to find out that McCain is still a candidate (although I'm still confused as to why McCain is even a candidate to begin with...or a Republican to begin with. Can't Obama just perform a coup?) Everyone loves Obama here (except for the Kikuyus since he is a "Luo"). The newspaper had a section of Luo children's perspectives on what will happen if Obama wins and most of them are about him making a personal appearance and giving them candy, or building skyscrapers and paving streets with gold in Luo areas. It's not exactly understood that his social views and values wouldn't really mesh well with Kenyans, and many people would probably actually Sarah Palin's crazy ridiculous ideas (Hey guys, Let's ban books in the library!), and complete lack of knowledge.

But that's a rant for another day...

Monday, September 15, 2008

New Life Goal: Learn to Spear Fish

I know that you all wait in daily anticipation of my blog updates, because of their undeniable charm and wonderful wit, but slow internet connections and the fact that I am constantly in class (including Saturdays), keeps me from venturing through the tedious chore of reading emails and writing here.

Kenya is absolutely wonderful, and my Swahili is going by so quickly. We have classes for three hours a day, and then more lectures in the afternoon. Sometimes we go on field trips like a walk through Kibera (the largest slum in Africa), or to the UN Headquarters to see UN Habitat, or to the Kenya National Committee on Human Rights. We've definitely met tons of amazing and interesting people.

We've also started to explore how to have fun (although time is limited for that since we're in class about 7 hours a day, and can't walk anywhere after dark). We did manage to celebrate a birthday at a fancy restaurant where I ate several people's portion sized food plus beers and spent less than $8. We also went out dancing on Saturday night and again I came to the realization of how fabulous foreign clubs are because all they play is American music from the 90s...ie the Macarana. Beautiful.

Later in the week we'll be departing for the coast where I will actually have to rough it for a bit. I'm also trying to think of a legit research project to do that involves me going to a remote village on the coast and learning how to spear fish. My original plan doesn't seem like it is going to work out because the SIT office in Vermont isn't letting us travel west of Nairobi even though it is completely safe and the US embassy has lifted all travel restrictions. So therefore I've just decided to learn one of the greatest skills ever: spear fishing, which of course will come into PLENTY of use back in the US.

I'm also planning on doing some traveling after the program, and although I really want to go see gorillas in Rwanda maybe I can do a trip through the Rift Valley of Kenya as well.

Hope all is well!

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Why Noise Producing Toys should be Banned

I have finally found my home and unpacked which is a huge relief after unpacking and repacking, sleeping in group rooms, and just generally hanging out with twenty Americans all the time. My host family is pretty awesome, especially my Mama who I think may be one of the coolest women in Kenya. Not only does she speak 4 languages, she also has 2 masters degrees then her PhD, and travels all over for her job as a scientist at the Nairobi Museum. Malaika, my new 4 year old sister, is a bit rambunctious but fun to have around. Although having my hair pulled and being jumped on while I am lying in bed are definitively things I'm going to have to get used to. I'm living in a rather nice neighborhood, and my apartment is gated and has a guard 24 hours a day. It can also steal wireless internet from the apartment complex behind us, which is nice and unexpected. However, like most internet connections here in Kenya, it's unfathomably slow and I don't expect to use it very much; unfortunately letting my emails pile up over days can be quite the hassle when you have an internet connection this slow.

I've also met my "Aunt" and "cousins" and will probably be seeing them once a week after we attend church; the NPC- Nairobi Pentecostal Church.. I haven't quite gotten the hang of the hand raising, hip swaying, dancing crazy worship, but maybe if I practice hard enough I'll be a pro by the end.

Our group gave up the tourist things and instead focused on finally actually starting to acclimate to Kenya. We were very much coddled the first few days. Our last day of orientation was a tour of the city, and in many ways it broke my heart and disturbed me greatly. I was prepared for poverty, and slums, and all of the heartbreaking stuff you see on tv but like to pretend doesn't really exist. I wasn't prepared to see what I thought were these things, and then be told that we weren't even looking at poverty at this point and then drive through the area that holds the richest of the rich, and all their excesses including personal water slides usually reserved for water parks. I also went and played with some babies at an orphanage, and am astounded at how well behaved these children are, and how easily they eat. I'm chalking it up to the fact that batteries were taken out of all their toys, and were therefore not surrounded by heinous, miserable toy noise 24 hours a day. That stuff is awful. Malaika unfortunately just got a toy that plays a Chinese pop song over and over again.

Hope all is well in America.

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Luckily, I Can Dig It

So I'm in Kenya. We didn't exactly rough it like we expected it to for orientation, but it's still been an interesting experience. Our first day we were treated like real tourists and went and played with giraffes and kissed them. By kiss I mean put food pellets between our lips and have the giraffes eat them/ slobber all over us.

The touristy stuff ended there. Instead we were broken up into groups and sent on various trips throughout Nairobi. Basically they dropped us off and told us they would pick us up in four hours, and to just find out all you could. I think the real lesson was just to get used to being completely out of your comfort zone and having to rely on each other and navigate your way through the people surrounding you. My group was sent to the Nairobi (private) and Kenyatta (public) hospitals. So, since we knew absolutely nothing about either of these places we at first thought that Nairobi Hospital was the public one and we were so impressed by the facilities. Then we went to Kenyatta and realized we were very very mistaken. I was impressed with how many programs they had, but the lines were out of control and it was quite run down. It was also interesting to note how many international doctors were present at the private hospital. I think the coolest part were all the women's programs like the Gender Based Violence center and the fact that the had a program that advocated and supplied female condoms. Yay female empowerment! They also run the programs for prisoners, and so therefore we saw several inmates (with blue striped jumpsuits and matching sunhats!),

We moved locations today so we are actually in Nairobi now. We're staying in a very nice area, and it is by our school so I will have much easier internet access than expected. And when I am smart enough to charge my computer I can even take it to the coffee shop that is downstairs, get free internet access, and treat myself to a ridiculous piece of cake that is insanely cheap, and will supplement my ridiculously small diet the rest of the time which mostly consists of potatoes and tomatoes. My cravings have already begun. Bad bad sign.

Hope everything is going well in the US....I feel so removed without internet access. I do have a phone now, so if you ask I can give you my number if you are ever so inclined to spend lots of money on phone charges. Love you all.